王振成大师

王振成本来是参加第一届制鞋大赛的选手,但是他放弃比赛,一定要拿出一只挑战顶级难度的鞋子给国外的大咖评委看看。

于是做出了这双确实绝无仅有的无缝马臀皮一片式牛津。

由于马臀皮不如牛皮强韧,张力不足,容易撕裂,在如此极端的楦型上,这个问题更加突出,所以他的确是挑战极限了!

我们先看看各个评委的评价。

奥山大

Very bold and experimental challenge. Well done for the no seam whole cut with cordovan!

And with this last shape! It must have been so difficult, not only the upper leather, sole bends are very well controlled. Need experience. Very delicate finish of the sole and heel finish with the natural colour. Very well handled. Very interesting detail, sole leather is covering the heel… first time to see.

Roberto Ugolini

Very particular shoe in every detail. The choice of the kind of leather is interesting (it would seem Cordovan) and the finishing of the heel and sole is particular. Difficult to judge the stitching of the sole because it is not visible. Overall very interesting shoe but not easy to wear.

Daniel Wegan

Interesting complicated shoemaking. Attractive and challenging in some ways and very simple and unattractive in others. Good lasting technique for this kind of last. I would be curious to know origin of this leather. Spole finish is smooth and uniform but sole doesn’t look stitched? The metal part of heel could fit better and the inside of the shell heel is not very good finishing. Bottom is very clean and has uniform color and smooth surface feel.

我们可以看到大师都给了许多溢美之词,这个就不多说了。但是大师都提了一个问题,鞋底是不是缝的?没有看到线。

还好,王振成大师在制作的过程中,都拍摄了视频,记录下来。这个视频应该可以回答很多问题,包括为什么鞋面皮也没有缝线。我们一起看视频。

在这个视频里,鞋面,也就是鞋口的边缘为什么没有缝线,已经解答了。

鞋底是否有缝线,也回答了。

还有两个问题,没有被解答。

一个是马臀皮的来源,目前他们只知道是意大利托斯卡纳的皮革厂的,但是具体名称,还在问。这个问题问到了,我要回答Daniel Wegan。

另一个是腰部是否有缝线,这个视频里没有,王振成师傅在Trunk Show现场,信誓旦旦地说有,并且同意后面一起拆了看。

我后面的计划是这样的,有兴趣的人,咱们一起约着去温州,见证他拆鞋,然后我会下单他的全定制,看看他完整的从制楦到缝制的全过程。要知道,他的报价是3000。我的心理价位可不是这样的。