2021Trunk Show制鞋大赛冠军鞋展示

在看鞋子以前,我还是想重申一下我对这个比赛的态度和初衷。

首先,我不会做鞋,我不是什么鞋子方面的权威,我认为这个比赛是有意义和有益的,也是为Trunk Show增加一定的乐趣和看点的,所以我加上这个内容。就和Jesper在欧洲办Super Trunk Show有这个环节一样。

其次,我希望可以邀请知名的顶级鞋匠来作为评委,他们的专业度让这个比赛有公正性,同时我也希望现场的观众可以参与,增加乐趣,也和鞋匠有更多的互动。

最后,这个比赛我期待两种参赛者,一个是名不见经传的鞋匠,我希望参与这样的比赛,可以让更多人知道他们,给他们带来更多的订单,也就是钱和经验!另一种则是成名鞋匠,希望传达自己的美学理念或者特别的技艺。

前言就说这么多,我们一起来看看本次比赛的冠军来自浙江嘉兴的鞋匠,金生的作品

评委的评语我会放在最后面,不要因为他们的评价影响了我们的欣赏。

这双鞋在我眼里,得到冠军,是毫无争议的,各个角度都是最用心的!最后只以0.5分的优势获得冠军,反而是我没有相当的。

鞋子的亮相,就让人觉得这必须是bespoke!没有成鞋敢标榜自己做到这个复杂程度。

首先是楦型和鞋头,明显的高级感,并且鞋头还有一个中间的凸起,这种张扬的实验性作品,成鞋不太可能,而他给予的美学感受,是非常不错的。

然后是这双鞋他做成的是Lazyman,这本身就是一个创新了,而更让人惊叹的,是他对松紧带地方的处理,这种艺术感的放射形,就像章子怡在十面埋伏里水袖击鼓的柔美与力量。

在这个近照下,也可以看到鞋面车线的密度,非常的细密。

另一点这是鞋面上的诸多装饰元素。如果你看过John Lobb的原版削苹果皮,Spiral Cut,就知道这个款式是非常简洁的,一切以流线说话,但是金生在流线毫不怯场的情况下,大量加入布洛克元素。

不仅仅是Wingtip这里,鞋带区域下方,包括后侧,都有。

再比如鞋身两侧的波纹,游龙戏凤,鱼戏鹰翔。

鞋底,在考试题目已定的情况下,不可上色,仍然当作了艺术品来雕琢。这个细腻的滚花和比例,我没见过,但我大受震撼。

鞋底的头也修成一个中间凸起的形状,和鞋头对应起来。

但对于鞋腰的打磨,我并不是很欣赏,因为最后的效果特别的单薄,并不美观,也让人担心强度。

后跟同样是精髓所在,轻微的古巴跟,我觉得这个度拿捏地是准的,但是这个金色的铜片在中间,我觉得真的是把时尚品牌的路数优美地放进了经典男鞋。

后跟的木钉元素,有想法,但执行出来的效果,比较一般。怎么样可以更精致或美观,需要再尝试。

沿条缝线,据说是SPI(Stitch per Inch)是12,我没有去量,细密是很好的,但是线有点歪扭,这一点上,恐怕就是日本人做得最好的。

然后我的眼睛都能够看到鞋腰上面的皮被割伤了,这也是几乎每个评委都提出来的问题。

非常顶级的鞋子,也许我没有亲手摸过那些比赛的冠军鞋,这双也许没有它们那么犀利和冲击性,但是完成度和创意,都极佳。

评委的话语附在下面,供大家参照。

奥山大

工艺:8.5

美学:8.5

评语:He’s done a very difficult pattern and upper work very well. Good neat upper stitching skill. Bold but classic design which is not easy. Good bottom iron work. It would be much better if the heel was cleaner. Be careful not to cut the upper with knife during bottom work. Neat and small out stitch work.

Daniel Wegan

工艺:7.5

美学:8

评语:Quite nice pattern with some nice features and details. Nice proportions especially considering the many details. Stitching and cutting of the upper is a little bit rough in some areas and the broguing is very spaced out. Metal inlay in heel is nice but the shape of the heel is very bumpy with a very rough seat. The finish of the sole is nice and it has nice smooth feeling. Wheeling is good but I think unnecessary. Good ironing would be nice. The upper has many cuts and scratches. Maker should be more careful as it makes a nice designed shoe look very poor. The sole stitching is nice and the edge of sole has nice pronounced lips but surface is a bit too rough, The ridge toe is done well and proportional. The redge on the heel is too small and makes it hard to notice.

Roberto Ugolini

工艺:7.5

美学:8.5

评语:Very interesting model especially for the many details. Stitching of the upper perhaps better with a thinner thread. Very good sole stitching with a good finishing of the sole edge. The design of the tip is very interesting. The sole is not bad even in some places it is a bit dirty.

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