Elliot, style number 9176 is the best seller of Carlos Santos globally, and Coimbra patina is best seller in this best seller in China.
Let us have a look at its charm.
Unboxing
You can see the texture of the box from the photo, which is very strong. I sometimes think that a product doesn’t have to be so stand-out or fancy, as long as it’s consistent, over decades and years, the brand will be respected and recognized.
The sticker contains all the information about this pair.
Style number 9176, leather is aniline, patina Coimbra. Construction is Goodyear, last is 362. Size UK5.
Uncover the box, I saw a paragraph written by Carlos Santos himself. In short, the shoes are of good quality. Thank you for choosing them.
The brochure says what Goodyear craft is, and I think it might make sense for people who are buying Goodyear shoes for the first time. Then the shoe bag.
Peel off the packaging paper, and the first thing that catches the eyes is indeed this coloring.
Pattern
I have stocked Elliot before but in Grey Brown Suede.
I think it’s interesting that even though it’s the same style and last, the different leather gives significantly different feelings.
The advantage of Coimbra patina is that it is very low-key. In this photo, everyone only knows that it is not black, but if you really ask what color it is, it may be difficult to describe. Is it dark brown? It seems to be a bit deeper.
Under different angles or lighting, it can present a brighter color. For shoes like Loafer, which are relatively less formal, it is indeed a better choice than black, both low-key and fun.
The design point is the seam on the heel. The heel of most leather shoes is not a whole piece of leather, as it increases the difficulty of last lasting.
Carlos Santos chooses the heel style that Oxford likes, such as the Adelaide style, which is a whole piece of leather with curved edges.
Compared to the roughest feeling of a leather strip and the most common vertical seam, this can be more integrated.
I have a negative view on this shoe upper (apron) design element.
Why? Let’s first take a look at the performance of this element on suede.
Although this method of docking the leather may appear rough overall, using golden stitching on the suede still adds an elegant feel.
And on this pair of smooth leather, the color of the stitching is no longer outstanding, so visually it is easier to focus on the leather edge.
This kind of flipping is seen on John Lobb Lopez and regarded classic, but compared to more pointed leather that is pulled up and sewn, I personally do not prefer it.
Last
The more I look at last 362, the more I feel that this last is really interesting.
This last has a very standard American flavor, which is the origin of the penny loaf or Ivy style.
Looking at the top view, which means wearing it on my feet, I feel that this blunt toe is not that wide anymore, and it is indeed very comfortable.
Outsole
The sole is painted to have a rich brown colour.
Construction
The welt is a bit narrower compared to the mainstream UK brands. The advantage of being narrower is that the shoes are overall more delicate and elegant. There is no fudge on the edge, and finally the stitching is pressed very deeply, feeling like it’s embedded in the edge.
Conclusion
A pair of low-key loafers with profound patina that pay tribute to the traditional Ivy style.