It is so sarcastic that I determined to spend my hard earned money to buy a pair of most expensive and luxury Ready To Wear shoes, Silvano Lattanzi last week, and consulted a lot of people even the seller about the size, it is still too big for me. Without choice as I promised to the seller I never return the shoes I bought another pair.
Something soothing is the pairs are both conservative and fits my taste, otherwise I regret so much!
Let us check out this pair.
Unboxing
This shoe box is not as iconic as the yellow one and I am not sure which came first. I believe it was a big brand rebuild as Silvano Lattanzi has so many boutiques around the world and so many stocks everywhere. Calzolaio is the Italian for Shoemaker.
Information on the side of shoe box, Model name Chelsey, Leather Vit, I believe it is the shortname for Vitello, Vitello is just plain boxcalf. Nero is the colour black. Forma is last, the last number is 416, and H is the width. Remember this H, I hate it. Size is 5.
The print paper is still the same as the one in yellow box. Although print paper is very easy to cripple which I disapprove to be the cushioning, the drawing on this one is good.
Uncover all the print paper, the shoes are divided by a thin layer, I don’t feel the protection of shoes is good.
Pattern
This pattern is very recognized but not because of Silvano Lattanzi, but Edward Green, yes, a lot can tell it is exactly the same as Berkeley from Edward Green.
Last
Most shoe lovers think last 202 from Edward Green is the example of stupid round toe, and Italians are all sharp and long.
In fact, this perception is very wrong. Italian does not have preference about round or sharp or even square, but only one thing is never compromised, which is elongated.
Look at this pair, its toe shape is even wider than 202, however, elongation harmonizes the proportion.
H width significantly harms the proportion which is very disappointing.
Just look at the outermost region of the shoe, the extrusion looks not so luxury.
Japanese has the same wide feet as ours, but you seldom hear someone say their lasts are ugly. Why? Because of the overall harmony. In my interview with Japanese bespoke shoemaker, Hiro Yanagimachi, I asked this question and his answer is more well thought, it is the harmony of 3 dimension.
Construction
Silvano Lattanzi is known for its high handwork percentage, and the outsole is hand stitched. The stitch density is higher than the same handstitched Hungarian brand, Vass, but that fudge is not aligned makes me suspect and it looks like machine stitched.
The stitches at the waist has the same density as the forefoot, which is not common.
Many shoe enthusiasts have bought enough pairs of Italian shoes and had the idea, no matter which price points the brands locate, exquisite finishing and craftsmanship is not what they pursue. You buy an Italian brand just for its design. Nothing more.
Outsole
Tow tone outsole, but the transition seems fading and expanding to each other’s region.
Many copper nails on the toe provide wear resistance. Size and width information is at the waist. Nails are heel are similar to Edward Green.
This is the outsole of my first pair Silvano Lattanzi, crust colour leather sole, very limited and small nails.
This is well I don’t like, I put consistence to the top priority and wish the details of a specific brand is predictable. Is my thought too rigid and industrial? I think brand is just a combination of all its elements, if so many aspects keep changing, the what is a brand?
Details
Handwritten gold logo is great. Logo on half sock lining is black from Gaziano & Girling, and stamped but with no colour from John Lobb, I still prefer this logo colour such as Crockett & Jones does.
A innovative design is found at the lining seam, the stitches has three colours which are the same as the ones on Italian national flag. And this introduces one high end detail of Silvano Lattanzi.
I am not sure how many people used to look at the shape of the lining of heel, Silvano Lattanzi’s lining is one piece and only connects at this heel side.
There is a cross formed by stitches under the eyelets, this is an expression of handmade details. But according to my experience the durability of this knot is questionable.
Model name and size are marked on the front end of sock lining which is unique.
I love to see different and iconic details on different brands, I think this is the reason people choose you.
Conclusion
A round toe even wider than last 202, it must be my favorite, right? Wrong, because the H width is too wide for me and this pair does not fit me even I bought size UK 5 right.