鞋楦是皮鞋的灵魂，也是皮鞋品牌真正的区分点。相比于鞋款，也就是鞋面设计的容易抄袭，鞋楦的这些单纯的线条美感，要难以拷贝得多。比如Corthay的Pullman楦型，大家都觉得好，但是做到模仿十成十的，一家也没有。 Post Views: 177
Tag: Last
这是定制鞋匠陈华问我的问题。 为什么会有此一问呢？因为在当前尖长当道的年代（代表Berluti，Gaziano & Girling），圆头被许多人所不齿，但陈华就是一个偏爱大圆头的定制鞋匠。 可是这个问题，我却没有办法给他一个客观的答案，因为对于圆度的审美，太主观了。 Post Views: 288
The toe shape of dress shoes has many names, and these terms are often overlapped, which is really not friendly to non-depth enthusiasts. For example, chisel toe is an element that can be combined with round toe and square toe. The name pointed toe should not be used along with round toe and square toe,
This is a question asked by a reader, and I haven’t seen a special article on the Internet to discuss it. First of all, no matter what the toe is, it is in the concept of last. Last is the first thing that people who understand shoes will see, and for people who do not
Of the Hungarian shoe brands, the most well-known at the moment is Vass. But from the capital Budapest, there are two other players, Rozsnyai and Buday, which are also very highly rated because they emphasize handcraft and customization. Post Views: 2,335
Edward Green may arguably the most sought-after brand in the world, and the reason is interestingly its high price. If Edward Green is not so expensive, I highly doubt its popularity. In this sharp and aggressive aesthetics era, the stupid round Edward Green can survive just because of its limited availability. The secondary reason is
我曾经列举过Edward Green的Dover在202，606和82上的对比。 这次，用Maftei的鞋子，也可以看看同款式在不同楦型上的表现。 Post Views: 672
Carlos Santos as an independent brand has no long history, however as a shoemaker it has been making shoes for 80 years, and the lasts and models are numerous. As the sales gradually built up and some models and lasts sold better than others, the iconic ones emerged. Here I summarize the loafer lasts from
As most English shoemakers have long histories they have lots of lasts developed in different eras. If you are not so into one specific shoemaker, it is nearly impossible to remember all these nonsense numbers. Crockett & Jones is very proud of its last options and continuously develops new ones to accommodate the trend. Post
我们听到了很多说法，比如欧洲人的脚比较窄，比如亚洲人脚背比较高，但实际上，我也不知道多少人观察过欧洲人的脚，或者除了自己以外别人的脚。 Post Views: 3,070