A Special Order of CIE Shoes

Cie was talked several times by me, it is the real pioneer of dress shoes with Blake and Goodyear constructions in China. However, it never targeted shoe enthusiasts. I think this is a good question why with same construction, some brands are loved by seasoned consumers while others not. Is it because of price? Certainly not. Most Italian shoes are very expensive no matter what the construction they are. In my opinion, it is its targeted customers which decides its marketing and products. For those who don’t know shoes very well, the best selling point is eye cathcy, otherwise, why should I buy from you? But for enthusiasts, even not value, it is the exquisite aesthetics which encourages impulsive purchase.

Owner of Cie, Mr. HUANG Dong knows this industry inside out and he is very clear about the position of Cie and what kind of customers it wants to reach. He proudly told “my clients always complain that our shoes cannot be worn out so they can buy new ones!”. I asked “why can leather sole not be worn up?” “My customers used to attach rubber sole.”

Based on its aim, Cie can lie on its success, but I keep urging him to build the brand.

Brand image building is not an easy task, if you look at what actions Mattina has taken, you will know what I mean. I don’t have so much resource and views, so my method is quite easy and straight forward, let the product talk for itself. In another word, best seller becomes iconic model standing for the brand.

I glanced its webshop and consulted with Mr. HUANG, the tassel loafer is the best seller.

Since the market has told which one is most loved, we can skip the step of picking. This model offers many options, this brown patina is best seller. But I am never a fan of this “dirty” patina.

Then I came across this pair, the same tassel loafer as above one, but a clash of green suede and tan tassels. I think suede is a great idea and colour clash is also great, so I discussed with Mr. HUANG to have a new version.

Let us have a look.

Unboxing

Purple shoe box with gold frame and logo. Wonderful and luxury colour combination. This shoe box has been prevailed for years from Cie which is a good thing.

This plastic paper is stiff and much more luxurious than print paper.

This spiral packaging is normally seen on cake, I think the originality is fantastic. When we say originality, it is not something totally new, but implanted from other fields, regions or anything.

Two space-shuttle alike shoe bags which is unique from Cie. And logo is printed on a square piece of leather then stitched on the bags, everything is great.

Even the shoe bags are a pair, not simply two identical ones as the leather tag on different sides of shoe bags.. I think Cie spent a lot of time on packaging and it is trivial but comforting.

Rosewood shoe horn has a rich patina, logo is missing I feel.

The wooden shoe horn was wrapped in a plastic bag which I deem very unnecessary, and some cautions were sticked which I feel sticking to the back of cover should be very enough.

Capsule shoe bag, I love it so much!

Last

Loafer last is always shorter than lace ups. Don’t believe me? Check out lasts from Gaziano & Girling which things elongation is a must. Cie’s loafer last is still elongated and almond shape. Although its forefoot room is generous, the outer line is harmonious.

Put on foot, the sharp front line reflects my ankle is bloated.

Pattern

Tassel loafer with different leather tassels. Quite interesting concept. There are two design points on this pair which both do good. First the apron seems too fat. Second the tassel seems directly attaching to the upper without braided leather popping out.

From this angle, all elements are the same as Edward Green Belgravia.

But there is one element is not found on Belgravia, which is the piping on opening. The sky blue piping and tassels including the braided strips are all hand painted.

If the front is having inspiration from an iconic model, the heel is absolutely original. The heel counter is opposite to most designs and the peach heel is lovely.

Leather

This suede leather is very new to me as the fiber is quite short, however, it is not as velvet shining like Janus from English tannery Charles F. Stead, but more fluffy.

The suede leather is from Italian tannery Conceria Zabri, I am very happy to see new offerings in this industry.

Construction

Goodyear construction, stitch density is good, while the finishing of welt is not impressive. Fully black is not good for this tender and brisk upper colour, and wide welt is a not thing about exquisiteness.

And I found some unusual marks on the welt. If this is purposed, I would be very happy.

Out Sole

Open channel, the slot is neat, and stiches are well aligned. I believe most of you will have a same question as me what the round logo is for.

This logo is deemed very low by shoe aficionados as some low end shoemakers used this logo to impress even deceit customers for good shoes.

I asked Mr. HUANG why you put this on? He told this logo was premium and Cie’s customers still believe so.

Leather sole was painted to purple colour, which is the brand colour, great.

Construction

I pointed out once that longer half sock lining could bring a problem when putting off the shoes, the front edge could curl up, and Cie immediately improved to stitch it to midsole.

Logo on sock lining is too shallow and I think coloured one should be better.

The very prominent platform of heel is not good looking and especially not suitable for a sleek loafer.

Fit

The last is quite strange as it is elegant but makes feet look fat. The apron is extruded at inner instep which is not good looking.

Another thing about fit is the wrapping around ankle is quite loose.

Conclusion

This is not a pair of successful special order as the colour combination is not satisfactory and the last still has room to improve. Anyway, product development never guarantees success, and it is full of trial and error. Maybe it is due to our aesthetics inclinations are different.

Cie released its new colour after this cooperation, it does look much better than my version.