Let’s start with a brief introduction to the Paul Sargent brand.
This is a reborn brand, although its surname, has made many dress shoe lovers know about its origins.
Alfred Sargent has always been a mid-range British brand in the same tier as Crockett & Jones, but it is much less well-known. There are several reasons for this. On the one hand, of course, the scale. The production volume of Alfred Sargent is nowhere near as good as Crockett & Jones for sure. This scale is an important consideration for some brands when choosing outsource to. So in the United States, Brooks Brothers’ footwear sub-brand, Peal & Co, has been using Crockett & Jones for many years. Don’t underestimate this private label business. The Booker brothers’ shipments, for the classic British welted shoes, are quite impressive. Although Alfred Sargent has also had the experience of OEM for American brands, the management felt that there is no match. Alfred Sargent’s sales in the UK, for some reason, are not very stable, but are OEM for the French brand Bowen, accounting for more than 90% of the factory’s production capacity. This also buried hidden dangers. In the end, due to the decline of Bowen’s own business, the cost compression was more stringent, resulting in Alfred Sargent running out of profits and going bankrupt.
The bankrupt Alfred Sargent factory and equipment were bought by George Cleverley, ending his years of entrusting Crockett & Jones for OEM and starting inhouse production.
And the heir of the Sargent family, I don’t remember if he is the fourth generation, Paul Sargent found another venue in Resden, bought some equipment, brought the workers who worked in Alfred Sargent, and established a new brand.
The essence of the shoe is Alfred Sargent’s last and upper design, and the craftsmanship is nothing new.
However, a brand that has always been praised for its quality can be reborn is still supported by the majority of enthusiasts.
Let’s take a look at this pair.
Last
Alfred Sargent has always been a model of orthodox British shoes. This square toe may be elongated a little, however the overall proportion is British.
Let’s note that the widest place is a little bit in front of the bottom hole at the bottom of the shoelaces. This is the place I often use to distinguish British shoes and French shoes.
Because the Alfred Sargent’s own brand sales are not powerful, I am not familiar with its lasts because lack of exposure.
Pattern
The name of this pair of Paul Sargent is Moore and the color is Cherry. It can be said that it is the most classic and most famous style of Alfred Sargent. Cherry red is also a signature.
But if you ask, why is the cherry red Moore so classic, the answer is not here. It goes to Gaziano & Girling.
Gaziano & Girling, as a brand established in 2006, had not its own production for Ready to Wear collection, and it chose a production line in the Alfred Sargent factory, then optimized and upgraded the workmanship.
We can say the trend of implementing fiddleback on Ready to Wear shoes started from this production line.
And Gaziano & Girling has a signature model, that is, St. James II, which is exactly the same as Moore.
Where is the main design point? It is the Adelaide Brogue line extended to the heel, and there is another bending Brogue decoration in the back. The design of this upper, because there are not many people who can find it because it is at the heels, but precisely because of the heels, it is very beautiful, making this shoe praise by the seasoned connoisseurs.
The foil Dog Tail is a bit chic. Under the overall connection, there is more resoluteness.
Leather
The performance of the leather is not very satisfactory, the crease is not very delicate, and the coating is relatively obvious. In comparison, the level of plating is even more uncomfortable than creases.
The performance of the right foot may be good at first glance, the crease is better than the left foot, but the level of the plating is the same.
Outsole
Fiddleback waist has become more and more common.
The rounding treatment of the inner side is well done.
The harmony of the overall shoes on the outer side triggered me. So which elements contribute to this so-called harmony?
I think it is the thickness of the sole. For example, some brands will implement the waist with the Blake technology, or the cemented construction, in my eyes, there is no difference between advantages and disadvantages, or I don’t care. But the final visual effect is what I care about, the obtrusive thin, there will be a deliberate and hard sharpness.
Secondly, an arc-shaped backward angle. Finally, the extent of the arc of the soles of the shoe.
Welt
Stitch density is higher than Crockett & Jones Benchgrade.
As far as this pair of execution is concerned, the stitching of some positions is too edge, so that it is a bit grinding to the stitches.
In general, Paul Sargent has a fine welt.
Details
The information in the lining, the style name Moore, size 7.5F. The standard width of the Alfred Sargent is F. As for the information of the latter 4188, it is not clear.
I have seen the trademarks on the pad for the first time, and the font is quite interesting.
Summary
I have had a special longing for this model because it is the signature of Alfred Sargent. After this review, I feel my longing is satisfied.