I mentioned this brand several time and it now belongs to New & Lingwood. New & Lingwood is a high end menswear shop in UK, and its most iconic products are Dressing Gown and bespoke shoes.
It later released Ready to Wear shoes, but no matter it is bespoke or RTW, they are both in fact Poulsen Skone and Co.
Poulsen Skone was a west end bespoke shoemaker (shop) and released its Ready to Wear, in the beginning, the shoes were made by Edward Green, then moved to Crockett & Jones for better cost. New & Lingwood now is made by Crockett & Jones. There was rumor that Alfred Sargent and Grenson both made for but not very clear about the timeline and shoes characteristics.
The ready to wear of Poulsen Skone or New & Lingwood, choose which name you like, all comes from its bespoke models, among which, two are the best seller, one is 7713 which I present today, the other is the brogued apron bufferfly loafer.
Let us have a look at my pair.
Pattern
Quarter Brogue Oxford. 7713 is the best seller of New & Lingwood till today.
If this model is so commonly seen, what is special of 7713, the answer is the curved line beside eyelets, the direction and angle, this trivial details can only be appreciated by in the know.
Last
A very English round toe, conservative and best proportioned, low profile yet elegant.
Outsole
Close channel sole seems ordinary today, however, in England, it is still for the premium shoes, talk about arrogance.
Leather and Colour
The leather quality is too good to be a pair of shoes made by Crockett & Jones and I even suspect this pair is very old and made by Edward Green.
The colour is very funny as it is called English Tan, but hello, is it brown?
Welt
The stitches are well hidden in the welt, and I am pretty sure it is Crockett & Jones as Handgrade utilizes this technique by default.
The grinding of the welt at the toe is at the same level as Edward Green. The welt looks very satisfying overall.
It is not perfect as we move on to the waist, there is no fudge here and the stitches are not covered as well. This corner cut makes the shoes less exquisite.
Heel Lasting
The small heel and closely sitting on the heel bottom show how good the lasting was executed, if you happen to have a pair of Crockett Jones Benchgrade in hand, you can make a comparison.
Details
The logo on sock lining is very complicate and full of information, but very iconic.
The lining says its model number, size, width and last. 160 is a very universal last if you see a lot of vintage shoes, which Crockett Jones use this last to make for private labels.
The size is where it is strange as I take Crockett & Jones 5E perfectly, but 6E from this pair is not big to me, unbelievable.
Conclusion
Although Poulsen Skone and New & Lingwood are both made by Crockett & Jones, no matter the designs or the details is interesting.