A relatively niche style, which reached its peak in the 1950s is still rare although not absent at the moment. In addition to the tassel Loafer, another American contribution to classic dress shoe community.
The name corresponds the style very well, and people who have never seen it can correctly imagine how it looks just by hearing this name.
Let’s first take a look at the up and down of saddle oxford shoes.
Saddle shoes first appeared in 1906, and the company that invented this style are known by many basketball enthusiasts but has nothing to do with dress shoes, Spalding.
At that time, it appeared as a sneaker, and the white rubber sole that matched the color of the upper did not leave black marks on the gymnasium floor.
By the 20s, people often wore them to play golf, tennis, hockey, etc. Around this time, women also began to adopt it. Then many dress shoe companies joined and made saddle shoes with Goodyear construction.
During the Great Depression and World War I, leather and black dyes became scarce, so cheaper canvas was used on saddle shoes, with brown and white being the most common colours. Even the laces and stitching are white.
At the end of the 30s, the factory resumed the production of leather saddle shoes.
During the war period of the early 40s, the fashion trend was to mimic old and vintage, the new saddle shoes were deliberately made look old and dirty. After the war, fashion reversed, and it was honored as spotless again. Girls and boys spend several hours a day cleaning their shoes.
By the mid-40s, saddle shoes had entered popular culture and endorsed by celebrities such as Elvis, which made almost every teenager and adult have a pair.
Wearing saddle shoes became a source of pleasure, and the secret ritual of many housewives was to wear saddle shoes at home for comfort, but change into high heels before the husband returned home.
Saddle shoes had also added more bright colors besides black, white and brown, such as red, blue, green, and even pink.
In the 50s, saddle shoes reached their peak, both young people and the elderly liked to wear these shoes. Because of the relaxed feeling of these shoes, people after the war ushered in inner peace.
But the peak came and went quickly, and by the 60s, saddle shoes were almost dead, and only children in school uniforms wore them.
To this day, this retro trend has still not returned on a large scale, and they can be seen in some women’s shoe shops, and there are very few brands still in production saddle oxford shoes for men.
But fortunately, although not many shoe factories are willing to put in the effort, artists such as bespoke shoemakers always draw inspiration from historical models.
Who played with saddle shoes in the past decade is the late Italian shoemaker Stefano Bemer.
As an American classic, the saddle shoes were originally silly and blunt, but Stefano infused the taste of Italy, and the feeling of delicate playfulness immediately soars. Coupled with the contrast of Stefano Bemer’s bright colors, it is high-key and eye-catching.
And his student, Justin FitzPatrick, passed on and developed the shoe Burien.
Although the popularity of saddle shoes has never been high, this element has been maintained in many countries, such as Rossini offered by Mattina from China.
In my opinion, saddle shoes as formal shoes, is indeed very casual, may be more relaxed than the same color-clashing Spectator, but under the current trend of casual clothing, saddle shoes may get its momentum again!