An Interview with American Bespoke Shoemaker Francis Waplinger

Francis Waplinger is a rising bespoke shoemaker based in New York city, his shoes have very strong personal signature and quite opposite to the American mainstream dress shoes, much more elegant and artful.

It is always good to know there are young generations love and practice in this craft.

Let us get into his story.

Could you tell us more about yourself?

I’m 34 years old and I grew up in Seattle, Washington, USA.

In my free time I enjoy cooking with my wife and skateboarding.

How did you get to know shoemaking? 

As a kid I grew up playing soccer and skateboarding and was always obsessed with the newest and “coolest” shoes that were released.

After taking a few short shoemaking courses I was hooked and decided to pursue the craft of bespoke shoemaking.

Why did you choose Italy to learn shoemaking? 

I decided to go to Italy to learn the craft of shoemaking because it was the only place I could find at that time that I could learn.

When I was just getting started it was almost impossible to find anyone that was willing to teach me in a long term setting and Italy was the only door that was open to me. Then I landed Academia Riaci as many other future shoemakers.

Who did you apprentice under and how did you find him? 

I apprenticed with Roberto Ugolini, it was an incredible and fulfilling experience.

Which part of the whole making process is most difficult and how did you master it? 

In my opinion, pattern making and finding the correct fit are the two most challenging aspects of shoemaking.

Besides having basic instruction the only way to master anything in shoemaking is practice, practice, and more practice. 

How do you describe your shoes style?  

New American Classic, I specialize in Oxfords and Adelaides.

In your opinion, what kinds of shoes are people looking for? more dressy? more daring? more unique? and what is the reason behind? 

Most of my orders are for black oxfords. A classic and versatile shoe that can be dressed up or down depending on the occasion. 

What are your favorite designs of your shoes? 

My favorite design is the oxford model and its variations.

How is your business? 

Business is good right now, I am very busy.

What is your plan for the near future? 

I’m staying focused on making top quality bespoke shoes and providing each client with an exceptional final product.

I am aiming to expand my MTO options and am working on a few new last shapes. 

Please say something to Chinese shoe lovers and bespoke shoemakers. 

I truly appreciate each person who has fallen in love with bespoke footwear. It takes all of us to keep this craft and tradition alive, each one of my clients allows me to follow my passion of shoemaking. Each shoemaker that is in business helps support the tradition of old world leather tanning as well as each component and business involved in the bespoke footwear industry. Thank you all. 

Price and Delivery time

Bespoke shoes starts from 3200 USD, delivery time is 12-14 months.