The tailor who came back from Milan seemed to dominate China, first Zhang Xiao, then ZHANG Renjie (founder of Sartoria Solari), the former in Musella Dembech and the latter in Yuki Inoue. Now, after two years of staying up late with Yuki Inoue to make clothes, Vito ZHANG (ZHANG Weize) have returned to China with pure Milan style, and opened their own independent workshop, Sartoria Vito, in Nanjing.
Let’s learn his story together.
Briefly introduce yourself.
Ciao Ragazzi, I’m Vito.Zhang, and I’m 28 years old.
Hobbies are fitness, music, movies and travel.
Watching UFC in each issue on weekdays.
How about your education experience?
From the traditional art (sketch, color, sketch) in primary school, the high school passed the design department of Chuanmei and the design department of Jiangnan University.
When I was 13 years old, I went to England to attend a summer camp and began to like the atmosphere and feeling of Europe.
I used to be a host family in high school. I was hosted by Italians. Italy is one of the holy places of traditional western art in the Renaissance, and its design is among the best in the world. Therefore, after the college entrance examination, I went to the Brera Academy of Fine Arts in Milan, Italy, to study progettazione artist per l ‘impressia, which is called corporate art design in Chinese.
In college, I also attended Istuto di Modabargo, studied Sartoria professionale for three years, and graduated with full marks.
When did you decide to choose this trade?
Since I was a child, I like to watch movies starring Godfather, Scarface, Jason Statham and Tom Hardy, which are partial to suit thugs.
I started watching UFC in high school, especially like the dressing style of the legendary Conor McGregor.
After I arrived in Italy, I also went to Paris, France. I felt that men in Britain, Italy and France were still very well dressed. On the way, I saw many gentry costumes appearing in movies, which was very eye-catching.
At first, I ordered MTM from SuitSupply, Boggi Milano, Sartoria Rossi and Tom Ford. Later, I got to know Riccardo, a fellow schoolmate and teacher who also liked this culture. Under his recommendation, I went to Burgo to study printing and garment making.
Where did you study?
At the beginning, I studied stile industriale, the academic school was partial to industrialization, and I started plate making and garment making.
Later, I came into contact with Milanese, all-handmade, 4-body-oriented customized suits, such as Sartoria F.Caraceni, Sartoria Mirici, Sartoria A.Caraceni…
After being introduced, I saw Yuki’s works on ins and was attracted by his curves and techniques, so I trusted him privately and went to learn from the teacher.
What is the biggest feeling of studying and working with Yuki Inoue?
Patience, perseverance and ingenuity; Rigorous, precise, paranoid.
Show the hand-made seiko incisively and vividly, from the aesthetic of the version to the small needle, buttonhole, bead edge and hand shoulder pad, everything is to the limit.
But every day, my nerves are tense, and I am afraid of making mistakes and being scolded.
The effect of the really produced works is very different. He not only shows it to customers, but also shows it to peers. A good, non-mass-produced product should have the standard and attitude.
What is your comment on Yuki’s works?
Perfect balance of the soft-structured English curve of Milan School in North Italy, coupled with the fine work of Japanese craftsmen, not only looks good but also is comfortable to wear, and there are many powerful doorways in the process.
I think every independent tailor and craftsman has his own style and characteristics. Just like there are eight cuisines in China, some people like spicy food, so they will like Sichuan cuisine and Hunan cuisine. Some people pay more attention to the ingredients themselves, so they will like Cantonese cuisine. What is important is that the guests like it.
As an apprentice, what kind of essence did you get?
He told me many times: ‘Vito,devi fare sempre più preciso!Stay humble stay foolish,Siamo solo Piccoli sarti.’
I’ll give myself a 7 out of 10.
Will it be integrated into your own thinking and style?
Milan’s craft version will keep 90%, plus my own aesthetic improvement.
Why do you want to go back to China and be independent?
I am a homesick person, and a native of Nanjing will have a deep complex about my hometown.
I’ve been floating outside for almost 10 years, but I still want to return to my hometown.
What do you think is the most suitable fabric for Milan style?
Style has little to do with fabric. Lana, Twist, Tweed, Cashmere, Irish Linen … worsted and blended don’t matter. What matters is its style, practice and style.
How to appreciate your Milanese style?
It looks more curvy British, but it doesn’t look British.
Every store has its own characteristics, and so does my shoulder-to-shoulder approach.
Just try to make your own things.
What’s your plan for the near future?
Europe is dominated by Milan and Zurich.
During my work in Italy, I have accumulated a group of customers who like my style. Go back to Europe to do Trunk show in the first half of next year, and then run at home and abroad.
Price and Delivery
Two pieces starts from 19800 RMB.
