Blog

I’ve been hoping to introduce customized shops or tailors all over the country who focus on products to everyone. The root cause is that this is a local business, and more frequent exchanges can bring better products and experiences.

This time, it happened that this tailor from Tianjin filled a gap in a city and helped me to light up a city with one store and one city, Tianjin.

And his background and working experience are more interesting.

Let’s learn about Zhang Tianhao’s story.

Introduce yourself briefly.

My name is Zhang Tianhao, my English name is Athos, I was born in 1999, and I am 26 years old.

I studied as a drama director, but I dropped out of school in my freshman year.

I made an advertising company in partnership with my senior at that time. I was in charge of creativity and execution, and my senior was in charge of business resources. I failed to survive the mask period.

When did you fall in love with suits?

My first suit was made when I attended the Model United Nations Conference in junior high school.

At that time, I didn’t touch wearing at all. I just thought it was a set of “work clothes”. I looked like an adult and I didn’t know the price.

Later, when I grew up, I began to get in touch with dressing.

Fashion brand, fashion, street, everything.

The wardrobe has been changed several times, and I forgot that suit long ago.

It was not until one day that I accidentally turned it out and put it on, only to find that its tailoring and comfort were different from the ready-made clothes I bought in these years.

From that moment on, I wanted to know about the suit seriously.

How did you enter this trade?

When you stop creating, your talents are no longer important, and all you have is taste. Taste will envelop you and make you exclude others and become narrow-minded. So, create.

-Jonathan Gillette

When I came across this sentence in high school, I had a little idea: I wanted to do something of my own.

So I have been looking for a bearing form: trying to write, trying to compose, trying to shoot things. The process is very interesting, but I always feel separated by a layer. Either a person can’t finish it, or after finishing it, I don’t know what to do next.

Later, when I came across clothes, I felt very practical:

There are clear criteria for judging-good is good, bad is bad, and there is no need to tell a story for a work.

One person can finish it-from the idea to the finished product, it’s up to him.

You can do it all your life-every time you do it, the next one will be a little better than the last one. It will not dry up, only accumulate.

Suit is the pinnacle of structure, style and technology in men’s wear category.

I fell in love with the feeling of making “good things” when I learned to make the first one.

In your apprenticeship experience, which ones have the greatest influence on you?

This question is not easy for me to answer. Halfway to becoming a monk, I didn’t have the kind of teacher who was trained as a “unified pulse”. Instead, I was a hammer in the east and a stick in the west. Every master and elder I met gave me a brick.

When I was making a collection of works for studying abroad, I first knew what “fashion design” was, following the creative teacher.

Later, I went to train the academic version of colleges and universities to understand the principle and structure of clothes.

Later, I became an apprentice in a suit shop and learned how this industry works, how to survive and how to serve customers.

After that, more and more teachers visited, and everyone had one or two unique things in their hands.

I have never really worshipped the mountain. This family should learn a little shoulder handling skills, and that family should learn a little matching ideas. When I come back, I will draw my own strokes, learn from each other’s strengths, and slowly work out the “right look” in my heart.

Therefore, no one has the greatest influence. Everyone who shows me the way and passes the brick counts.

How long did you start practicing independently after studying?

Since the end of 19 th century, I have been in formal contact with clothing. This year is the seventh year. The suit studio established in 2024 is confident to open a small shop by the end of 2025.

In this 7 years, how do you improve on fitting?

I learned tailoring from the Japanese cultural prototype. From the beginning, I remember the formula-take the size and draw the plate according to the formula.

Later, in training institutions, there was a course called “customization of measurement”. The content is to measure, make plates and make blank samples for seven or eight students every week, and check and modify them uniformly at weekends. This lasted for more than two months. That was my first enlightenment to “customization”-I understood every line on the human body corresponding to the template.

When I came out of college, I worked as an apprentice in a front shop and a back shop in China. The master made a good edition, and I was responsible for tying wool samples and splitting doors (adjusting cutting pieces after fitting). Most of the ideas for dealing with body shape were learned from there.

Later, all my friends knew that I had switched to making clothes, and it happened that I was old enough to get married. Many people ask me to make their wedding dresses.

Between friends, tolerance is high, which gives me many opportunities to practice my hands.

But at that time, I was still not sure about being independent, and I didn’t dare to really start work, so I entrusted our current MTM factory to implement it. The master in charge of the factory is particularly responsible. Every time I give the wrong data, he will call me for an hour or two, explaining why it is wrong and how to change it bit by bit, and accumulating a lot of experience in making editions.

Up to now, I dare not say that I can do all the special things well. The trust cost of the guests is very high. Let me do it. I cherish every opportunity. Sometimes the guests say that they feel bad about making clothes before. I hope I can solve it. I am trying to find a way when I sleep. Thank you very much for your willingness to cooperate with me in fitting and giving me opportunities for progress. Every adjustment is a learning.

How does the name Athoss come?

I registered a RED shop in a muddle, and found that Athos had the same name, so I added an s(/ covering my face), which was actually Athos.

An English name is an interpretation of what one pursues based on one’s own values. It has the same name as a religious holy mountain in northern Greece, and it also has the same name as atos in three musketeers, hoping to be silent, heavy and unique.

What is Athoss house style?

Official: I hope to provide contemporary men with high-quality dress choices, as well as elegant and decent, casual and comfortable dress styles.

I said: it is the most important thing to present an extremely “pleasing” dress with a light and soft structure. Secondly, it is not bad for outsiders and is constantly working hard.

Where does Athoss get its style aspiration?

This question is a bit abstract to me, in fact, I just want to make it look good in proportion and smooth in lines.

It can be done beautifully on the stage, with particularly smooth lines and a perfect radian in every place, but these “designs” may be invalid if the proportion of different guests changes.

If you must find the source, it may be mostly in those moments of fitting. Different guests put on their upper bodies, look in the mirror and constantly adjust, so we have three versions now.

All three versions are basic versions, business, leisure or sharp. First, set the tone, then adjust the height of the serial port to match the head-shoulder ratio of the guests, the difference between the chest and waist, the width of the barge head and the position and size of the waist, etc. The purpose is to wear it on people, which looks right.

In recent years, I feel that my aesthetic appreciation of suits is also improving. I like the works of Japanese tailor Vick and Italian tailor Pirozzi, as well as the works of many tailor teachers in China. Sometimes I see the gap and try to adjust my works, and I will also look at the brand show every year.

You provide bespoke and MTM services. What are the main differences?

Initially, MTM service was designed to meet the needs of routine work or occasions by choosing a good customer base with a low offline budget and a competitive price.

Bespoke service is implemented in accordance with Savile Row Association: the tailor is the printmaker, the general anesthesia lining is made by hand, the pattern is kept, and the style of the store is carried.

MTM is implemented by the cooperative factory: the conventional all-manual general anesthesia lining process, not low presentation level, unified lines and patterns.

I think there are two biggest differences:

The factory is an assembly line operation, and different fabrics should have a non-standard conversion process. Even if it is a general anesthesia lining, a layer of adhesive lining will be attached to the front body for easy production, which will affect the life of clothes and the sense of movement.

The train of thought of adjusting the special body is also different. MTM mainly adjusts the special body by “supplementing”, making the structure of shoulder and chest hard and putting people in; We give priority to structural adjustment ourselves, so that the lines of clothes can serve different guests first. It is really impossible to adjust and then “make up”.

How big is the team at present and how is the division of labor?

At present, it is a team of six people.

There is a master who has been in business for 30 years, dealing with the difficult problems of technology and format, and the rest are superfine product who has just been engaged in this industry for three to five years. Everyone has a relatively open concept and a high degree of acceptance of new technologies and new ideas. They are working and developing new things.

We have followed a more traditional way of division of labor, similar to apprenticeship: everyone is responsible for the process that he is best at, and then he is transferred regularly. The advantage of this is that everyone can grind a craft thoroughly, and not only get stuck in one link, but slowly touch the context of the whole dress.

Do you host Trunk Show in different cities?

We are located in Tianjin, and now we can provide free door-to-door service in Beijing, Tianjin and Hebei.

The service process is divided into three times: a detailed introduction, measurement and fitting twice, and each link needs to be face to face.

I really hope to communicate with guests from different regions. The form of Trunk Show will be introduced after further study and polishing, and it is not mature yet.

What’s the plan for the next five years?

Further polish the style, I hope that one day, my clothes will be thrown into a pile of clothes, and I can recognize them at a glance without lapels.

It took me five years to learn men’s wear, and I hope I can launch a lady’s suit with the same store standard in the next five years.