A Niche but Real Favour of Old Money, Butterfly Loafer

In recent years, the style of quiet luxury represented by Loro Piana and Brunello Cucinelli, and Ralph Lauren, is in full swing.

On the one hand, it is a fight back of logo fever/logomania in previous years and a “rebellion” (rebellion is generally used to describe young people, but this time it seems to be the other way around);

On the other hand, many brands have joined the ranks, such as Zegna, which has long been the represent of business, embraced them with all their strength.

What is the old money style?

Many people will talk about colour palette, styles, materials and other elements, but I think that the essence is what the old money choose. Old money is defined as having been rich for at least two generations or more. Why do the old money choose such elements? Because they don’t need to prove his wealth to others (this is just the opposite of logo fever), then the lighter colors are more relaxed and leisurely, showing that he is a “leisure class”, and finally, luxury materials can be considered as the most “practical value”-comfort.

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中国定制鞋匠黄妍专访

很多皮鞋爱好者都应该见过黄妍,甚至和她有不少接触。曾经Mattina上海门店的小姐姐是也。我与她的相识,是在2021年的绅装骑行上,当时她回国不久,尚未正式加入Mattina。由于她的艺术背景出身,加入Mattina也是为了开启自己制鞋的旅程。

中途我有联系过她几次,询问进展,以及大家最关心的,什么时候可以尝试她的服务,答案一直是还需要时间。沉淀到今年,终于有些松动,接受了我的专访。

一起来了解这位女鞋匠的故事。

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深棕色反绒皮真的不适合夏天!

关于深棕色反绒皮,我讲过不少次,我认为它的百搭属性,是最高的。这是以谁为基准呢,当然是黑色三接头牛津,所以,这个百搭属性,是从正式为起点的。

最近看到了Crockett & Jones的一组照片,款式可能是Boston,就是深棕色反绒皮。

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绅装鞋新颜色,新生命!

皮鞋一直和正式这个词绑定在一起,然而服装休闲化这个底层和民主相关的趋势,不可阻挡。皮鞋当然还是吸引那些非常精致,也希望通过服装建立high class印象的人,但也越来越被主流人群边缘化。

皮鞋品牌(我只谈论缝制鞋品牌,不谈ECCO这类休闲鞋品牌,是的,我把它定义为休闲鞋)为了求存,自然也在不断地推出休闲化的鞋子,印象最深刻的例子,就是Crockett & Jones在2024年主推的船鞋系列。

款式上的创新,我认为还是第二级的。

我对人们看待服装,分成三个等级。

第一个等级,颜色。

第二个等级,款式。

第三个等级,版型/楦型。最后一个需要稍微解释下,因为版型/楦型和款式是在一起的,人们说一件衣服好看的时候,也会直接说出,这个衣服版型不错这样的话。但是对于皮鞋,假如都是黑色三接头,还如何判断哪双好看?这个时候就是单纯的楦型对比了。衣服也一样,定制西服,假如都是海军蓝两粒扣,没有什么米兰眼,船袋这些元素,比拼的就是版型的线条比例美感。

所以我们回到第一性原理,如何让皮鞋休闲化?颜色!材质!

我目前看到的最好的答案,是燕麦色反绒皮!

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More and More Detailed Information

I believe that people who have just come into contact with Goodyear shoes will definitely browse a large number of goods online, and then they will find that the prices range from a few hundred to ten thousand.

Let’s confine our discussion to machine Goodyear shoes and exclude hand-made shoes. So the price difference caused by labor can be ignored.

First of all, we have to admit that this price difference mainly comes from the brand, not the cost. But the product itself, there are also many cost differences.

At the very least, a person who thinks that 1000 RMB is almost the starting price of Goodyear welted shoes is very shocked to suddenly see a pair of Goodyear shoes with 400 yuan.

How is this done? Simply don’t make a profit?

The answer is because you don’t know enough information. In other words, you don’t know enough about the product.

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