Kenneth Ling is the founder of bespoke tailoring house in Shanghai, Lancer.
I once said that Lancer is the most completed custom-made shop, and then, I also mentioned that Lancer’s clothes are the most worthy of the title of luxury goods.
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I believe that people who have just come into contact with Goodyear shoes will definitely browse a large number of goods online, and then they will find that the prices range from a few hundred to ten thousand.
Let’s confine our discussion to machine Goodyear shoes and exclude hand-made shoes. So the price difference caused by labor can be ignored.
First of all, we have to admit that this price difference mainly comes from the brand, not the cost. But the product itself, there are also many cost differences.
At the very least, a person who thinks that 1000 RMB is almost the starting price of Goodyear welted shoes is very shocked to suddenly see a pair of Goodyear shoes with 400 yuan.
How is this done? Simply don’t make a profit?
The answer is because you don’t know enough information. In other words, you don’t know enough about the product.
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Have you ever worn dress shoes which hurt your screw bones?
I have many times wearing barefoot and bleeding directly. Even if I wear socks for about half a day, my screw bones will pain. After a whole day, I can only say that I am very sorry!
I concluded that Italian shoes are the worst. Because when I wear British shoes, there is no such problem, and there is no such problem when I wear Chinese shoes.
Then when I went to see Italian shoes, I found that Loafer is more likely to have such problems than lace-up shoes.
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I Break in barefoot!
If you like dress shoes, I think you must have gasped now! what a hero!!
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This is a wanton era, an era of logo fever, and an era when money must be dazzled. Every era has its own characteristics and social and historical roots, so it is impossible to refute it or to target it aimlessly.
In the field of classic dress shoes, people also see the distinctive and outstanding patina at a glance. Looking forward to the gorgeous aesthetic popularity of the French court, even in the last shape, the aggressive ones are more recognized, such as Berluti and Gaziano & Girling. It’s not that they are better than others, they just conform to the trend.
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What information does a pair of shoes have? Size is definitely very important, and seasoned consumers pay more attention to last, and it is best to have the name of the model. Finally, there may be some traceability.
With so many shoe brands on the market, where is the information written?
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Insole has two types, full sock lining and half sock lining.
Full sock lining is easy to comprehend, from the toe to the heel. In most people’s experience, sock lining should be full, right? Taker trainers for example.
Half sock lining in fact is the mainstay in the field of classic dress shoes, especially Goodyear welted shoes.
The forefoot, that’s the vegetable tanned leather that everyone can see, so what does the heel look like? I think most people have never seen it.
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You may have heard of Seamless Wholecut Oxford, the eptiome of shoemaking, at least on handlasting skills.
The upper is made of a piece of leather without any functional or decorative stitching.
Its advantage is that it is very simple, which is equivalent to Chelsea boots in shoes.
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Goodyear welted shoes normally use vegetable tanned leather as the insole.
The benefit is that the forefoot has better air permeability, which is the embodiment of the hygroscopicity of vegetable tanned leather. What’s the downside? Vegetable tanned leather is relatively hard, especially true for new shoes, so many people who are new to Goodyear welted shoes will not be used to it and feel uncomfortable.
However, it is this hardness at the beginning that provides the ability to shape the soles to your feet. If you observe the inside of shoes that have been worn for a period of time, you can see the shape of the soles mimicking your feet, and it is indeed comfortable.
This shaping is not only provided by the insole, but also by a layer of wood chips underneath the vegetable tanned leather.
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