真正发明固特异制鞋工艺的人Joseph Fenestrier
固特异工艺,很多人第一次听到,自然就会想到固特异轮胎。嘿,你别说,这个固特异缝制机器的发明人,确实就和固特异轮胎有关系。因为创立固特异轮胎公司的Charles Goodyear的儿子,Charles Goodyear Jr就是这个发明者。
然而,发明机器,和使用机器,不是一回事。
真正让这个机器广为使用,甚至成为一种工艺的代称的人,是法国人Joseph Fenestrier。
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固特异工艺,很多人第一次听到,自然就会想到固特异轮胎。嘿,你别说,这个固特异缝制机器的发明人,确实就和固特异轮胎有关系。因为创立固特异轮胎公司的Charles Goodyear的儿子,Charles Goodyear Jr就是这个发明者。
然而,发明机器,和使用机器,不是一回事。
真正让这个机器广为使用,甚至成为一种工艺的代称的人,是法国人Joseph Fenestrier。
(more…)
There has been no new article in this series for a long time, mainly because all the meaningful brands have been introduced. With the decrease of the heat of dress shoes, the emergence of new brands is relatively rare at home and abroad.
However, this brand is really not a new brand. It has been making shoes since 1889.
It made Crocos style shoes without holes at the beginning.
At present, it is the fourth generation family business.
Joseph Malinge is proud of made in France. Frankly speaking, in the clothing industry, this is really a good stunt.
The brand characteristics of shoes are not obvious. Most lasts and styles are not exciting, but a few pairs are very cool!
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William Efe-Laborde is an independent French bespoke shoemaker living in London.

Even France has a very strong culture and community for bespoke crafts, William found this passion in England. We can regard him as self-taught because he doesn’t have any official job or apprentice in those prestigious houses, and this speaks a lot about his talent and determination.

Rank as the 5th in 2023 World Championships of Shoemaking, he is getting more and more attention around the world.
I am very honoured to have this opportunity to talk with him.
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French brands are very alike Japanese brands and only focus domestic market, so their reputation does not match their products. I know Berluti and Corthay gained some followings, and Paraboot led its own path even style. But the other peers such as Aubercy, Heschung, Septieme Largeur and Orban’s are still invisible to rest of the world. Except its daring patina, the shoes are well made as well. Heschung may rank a little lower than J.M.Weston and started as a ski shoemaker, so their shoes are very tough and stylish.
Check my pair.
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I name this pair Day Starsky.
J.M.LeGazel is a French shoe brand which has mono brand boutiques in Paris and New York. Their shoes are actually made by Portuguese shoemaker Carlos Santos, patina is done inhouse. There is one patina artist who studied here, Greg Park “Hancore” who operates independently now and has cooperation with J.FitzPatrick. Although this brand is not very famous outside of France, but its patina is really top level. Let us have a look.
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Altan Bottier is a French brand which focuses on patina and regarded as one of the pioneers after Berluti invented this skill. As most French middle range brands, Altan bottier does not make shoes, but only patina inhouse, and its shoes are made by Portuguese shoemaker Carlos Santos.
Let us have review of this pair.
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Most people know Bowen this French brand maybe from another name, the famous English shoemaker Alfred Sargent. Bowen only focuses the local market and almost occupied more than 90% production capacity of Alfred Sargent. Very few French shoe brands use English shoemaker. But the forever push on cost, Alfred Sargent went out of business. Now, who is making Bowen shoes? No idea.
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It is quite interesting so many French brands are related to the industry veteran, Marcos Fernandez Cabezas.
The original selling point of this brand is unknown now, and the current focus is just like other French brands, patina.
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A brand only known in France which I only read from Sheogazing.

I feel like talking about French shoe brands, the veteran Marcos Fernandez can never be bypassed who established a lot of brands. Markowicz was one of the brands and bred Septieme Larguer owned by his nephew Mathieu Preiss. Prince Jorge is just Markowicz with another name when Marcos sold it to the current owner.
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France is the undeniable mornach in fashion industry, although Italy offers more brands and choice at all levels.
Speaking about classic shoes, France also represents top level not matter in bespoke or Ready To Wear.
This list is according to price, not quality or value.
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