The Iconic Designs of Shoemakers

Maybe many brands have several peerless classic models, such as Lopez of John Lobb, Andy of Berluti, Arca of Corthay. Even if the brands are not famous by themselves, they all have very attractive styles, such as Decon of Norman Vilalta, Tobar of Septieme Largeur, and Brillantina of Bontoni.

Then my question is, if it is not a style, but a certain feature (excluding the last), can it immediately remind us of a certain brand? For example, for John Lobb, I can’t think of any.

I can think of the following, and welcome you to contribute.

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Upper Design Is An Identifying Point

The long history of classic dress shoes has resulted in classic/core styles from many of the longer surviving brands, and anyone with some knowledge and love of dress shoes can rattle off many, many style names.

However, I think there is only one brand that has done the best job of emphasising its brand identity on upper design, and I would give it an analogy with the familial front (design) of the automotive industry.

That is Edward Green.

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Countdown of Back Seams

Dress shoes, on one hand are regarded very boring as the patterns had been invented for so many years, for laymen, they even look all the same, maybe only the difference of with lace or without; on the other hand, numerous shoemakers are still keeping innovating and designing amazing patterns. If we only look at most conservative designs, there are some elements shared my each one, the back seam is one of them.

Back seam helps on lasting as seamless heel needs more skilful handlasting to control the stretch without tear off upper leather. But their aesthetics are different, here I rank them from the best to least loved by me.

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