Crockett & Jones was regarded as the cornerstone of welted shoes globally. The reason is many aspects, one of which is Crockett & Jones made private labels for US brands. If we divide English shoes into three levels, entry be Barker and Loake, the epitome is John Lobb, Edward Green and Gaziano & Girling, then the middle is Crockett & Jones. There was Alfred Sargent standing alongside but AS went bankrupt.
After running so many years, Crockett & Jones made a few iconic models, and the one James Bond donned is actually not that impressive.
My favorite is Connaught, the most conservative cap toe oxford, but the real reason is the last, 236 is the oldest running last among Crockett & Jones collection, elegant round English toe.
Crockett & Jones is so predominant that every style has good players, such as Chelsea (model name rather than type) and Coinston for boots, Pembroke for derby. Except aforementioned Connaught, Hallam and Alex for oxford. In loafers, Boston, Sydney and Cavendish are competing and Cavendish wins.
Let us check this pair of Cavendish 2.
Light dark green shoe box with golden logo, I feel the position of logo is slightly off the center a little lower. Anyway, the shoe box is quite premium feeling.
Information on the side sticker is truly complete, model Cavendish 2, colour Dark Brown Burnished Calf, City rubber sole, last 325, size UK 6 and width E.
Remove the cover and print paper is stuffed.
The print paper is many layers and the white logos on the white print paper are quite good looking.
Same colour shoe bag is made of fluffy fabric.
The first impression last 325 gives is the modified last Aberdeen of Alden, the widest location retreats some.
Since we are talking about Alden, it is a good time to discuss the history of Cavendish. The earliest tassel loafer offered by Crockett & Jones was Madison, you can tell its origin from the name. In 1987, Crockett & Jones felt this American creation had been well accepted by English customers, so retired Madison and released the first edition of Cavendish sitting on last 72. Cavendish 2 updated to last 325. Cavendish 3 was released to fit Asian feet and updated to last 375 with smaller heel cup than last 325.
Although there are 3 generations, Cavendish 2 sells best.
The almond shape of last 325 is quite full and lovely.
If we say the last is modified Aberdeen from Alden, the pattern is even more alike with only one slight difference with Alden 563.
The back of Cavendish 2 is a seam and Alden 563 a patch. Clearly Cavendish 2 is more refined.
Proprietary City sole is also my first encounter of this sleek rubber sole. Crockett & Jones still uses Dainite rubber sole but with private mold. The design is very beautiful. Main collection of Crockett & Jones is open channel Goodyear construction, the golden stitches are good looking though, as the main stream of shoemaking migrated to close channel, it is not a selling point to say the least. But using rubber sole, no shoemaker can make the stitches hidden, so Crockett & Jones reset the field.
This is where I am not a fan of Crockett & Jones benchgrade collection. Stitch density is quite low and stitches are far from upper.
The leather looks very promising with super fine grain pores.
My experience on Crockett & Jones leather is just average, nothing too bad, neither surprise.
The stacked leather in the heel is not painted to black and seems intrusive.
Information on lining is complete but without last number.
The English version of Alden tassel loafer with higher price but refined pattern.