In my introduction, Carlos Santos has four collections, three have been seen, today I will make up the last plate, that is, the Handgrade collection. I think that’s where Carlos Santos is the best place to play.
Let us check it out.
Unboxing
Familiar recipe, familiar taste.
Let’s interpret the information on the side. Style number is 9975, the style name is Gaspard. The leather is crust with blue patina. CSHAND is the abbreviation of Carlos Santos Handgrade. This sole is also unique in the market, let’s take a look later. The last type is 389. Size UK5.5.
The inside of the shoe box lid is gratitude from Carlos Santos himself to consumers.
Last
Compared to last 462 last used in Handcraft collection introduced earlier, last 489 is a small square soft chisel head commonly found on Handgrade. This is the interpretation of current mainstream by Carlos Santos.
Pattern
A pair of double monk in navy patina.
The blue patina and square toe are most intriguing.
The upper design of this shoe is folded stitching.
It’s a relatively cumbersome process which was invented by Berluti.
Of course, Berluti does it more advanced and achieves a zipper feeling, more showy, but the overall aesthetic, as what I have always said about Berluti, is avant-garde.
How does Carlos Santos go further with this folding? That is the whole shoe has this element everywhere.
Leather
Delicate pores tell the leather is quite fine.
Outsole
Golden outsole!
I think very high of this sole for three reasons:
Gold is a color that is not easy to handle, because it gives people a subconscious that is noble, and if it is not played well, it makes people feel pretentious. Carlos Santos finishes this golden sole perfectly.
The brand logo is on one side of the waist, and the effect is lying on one side is more refined. And it’s rare.
The third reason is this slightly bevelled waist. The method is not advanced but the effect is good looking.
The trademark on the rubber piece of heel bottom is also a good element. Many people may not know that this is a privilege that only big manufacturers can have.
Construction
Welt of Handgrade collection is very interesting.
From a distance, the gap between the welt stitches and fudges is huge, which does not give people a fine feeling at all.
But up close, stitch density is not bad, and many of them match fudge.
Finer fudge is meant to give an exquisite impression, but the effect is counterproductive due to low stitch density.
Maybe it’s better to learn from Yohei Fukuda Ready To Wear shoes, wider fudge with lower density, consistent and clean.
The waist of sole is grinded to a sufficient degree.
Details
The heel is embossed, which is standard on all grades of Carlos Santos.
Information printed on lining is style number, dealer code and size.
The color of lining and sock lining is the same, and the logo is golden.
Summary
A navy patina-ed double monk with reverse folding upper pattern sitting on a small square soft chisel toe. I don’t know if it meets the appetite of the current mainstream.