Zhao Jun is still desperately trying to polish his sole-making skills. He sent me a pair a few months ago and asked for some advice.
At that time, there were two points, one was that the last was not very exquisite, and the other was that the blind waist process of the sole was a very high degree of finish, but the aesthetic experience was not impressive. This time, he sent me two more pairs of shoes ordered by customers, and asked me to give a hand.
First One made of Boxcalf.
This is the reason why I said it is not publicity or promotion, no brand identity at all, what can I promote?
The side of the shoe box has a piece of paper attached with a photo of the style and the information of it.
Most brands write the name of the style, and there are some brands in the mall that have a very brief picture to tell you whether it’s Derby or Oxford. The photo is very good, very visual.
Pattern/Last
A pair of black oxfords with a great last.
Everyone knows I’m a round last fan and not interested in pointed, long lasts, but that doesn’t mean I can’t objectively appreciate a coordinated pointed long last. This one is very good. Many people will ask, what is good? 1) The curve from toe to the widest part of the shoe and 2) the ratio of the toe to the widest part of the length. Meanwhile, I observe another place for Chinese shoes.
It is the curve of the outer side inward. This can be said to be a relatively unique problem of Chinese shoe last. Because our feet are wider than European, so the outer side will be relatively very prominent. If the sole waist is not well modified, the transition looks particularly abrupt. This one takes care of this area well.
Change the angle and take a look again, does the outer side of the waist give a harmonious feeling?
Back to the Japanese shoes, Asian feet are wider which is recognized, so why are there no such problems with the Japanese shoe lasts? I may not have observed enough, but my experience is that they will be raised on the outside, unlike our shoes so leaning to French and Italian slimness, Japanese shoes compensates the abruptness through adding height of forefoot.
Outsole
Last time the sole was super narrow fiddleback, and this pair is half beveled and half fiddleback waist.
About the sole colour, full black is impossible to go wrong, but if to innovate, be prepared to fail.
The heel is indeed very fine.
Construction
The strongest I’ve seen among Chinese shoemakers. The strongest in which area? Not the highest density, because that’s a distinction WM1978 must take, but the finish. fudged welt, stitches tightly sitting on the fudge and edge finishing.
But just like the last pair, there is a problem that the width of welt of the toe is for improvement. Not the width of the toe strip is wider than elsewhere, because the distance between the upper are the same all round.
Although the density of fudge is the same all round, on the side, the fudge looks fine comparing to the long line. While with toe, the width is small, so should fudge or welt width too.
The hidden line at the waist is also well done. It’s all such an advanced process, why not add a broken heel? And then for ZHAO Jun, perhaps adding the process of the bottom leather up-rolling to wrap around the along strip would be even more impressive.
There is a very peculiar place on this pair of shoes, my knowledge is not enough to judge, The eccentricity of the laces and toe is particularly strong, andt the center line of the laces does not align with the center line of the toe, is this normal?
The second pair, crocodile leather
Pattern
The style is not different, it is still a wholecut Oxford, but changed to crocodile leather with patina.
Last
The last is very different from the former pair, with a strong sense of sharpness reminiscing of Paolo Scafora. With such a strong aggressive last, it can surely kill the four quarters and make a name for itself.
Outsole
Outsole of this pair of soles is much better. Returned to a very simple rounded sole, the curvature is not exaggerated. Sharp and aggressive beauty or introspective beauty? I vote for the latter. Crust color sole is good too.
Leather
I am also considered a connoisseur of crocodile leather and the quality of this pair is definitely not low. After patina you can still see the texture of the crocodile leather.
Is the heel still a little too wide for a pair of bespoke shoes for an Asian customer?
Summary
I think ZHAO Zhun is extremely promising and may become the best Chinese bespoke shoemaker one day.