Welted shoes are a small category in shoe industry, so its exposure is neglectable. When streetwear teamed up with high street fashion to catch eyeballs, this kind of promotion is rarely seen in this niche market. The first crossover into my mind is Santoni x AMG, and the second is less known but between two more premium English brands, John Lobb x Aston Martin.
The cooperation released two models, one is classic dress shoes, the other sneaker.
Dress shoes are like below.
Prominently beautiful swan neck. This is my first encounter with swan neck rather than Chelsea from Edward Green.
Then let us have a look at my sneaker version.
Pattern
The same prominent swan neck, and you can tell they are connected by the first sight, but above that, there are differences.
- Eyelets become 6 other than 5 on the dress shoe version.
- Quarter becomes longer which makes vamp shorter.
- Ventilation holes at the side of forefoot.
- Heel cup utilized cushion pad.
- Construction is cemented.
Last
Top view shows the last is perfect for dress shoes, however it is too pointy for sneaker in my opinion.
Last number is 8695. John Lobb last has a naming rule. The last two digitals of the four digital number indicate the year when it was released. So 8695 was released in 1995. The most seen last 7000 and 8000 were released in 2000. In the 1990s, 8695 is the mainstay of John Lobb and all its iconic lace ups sit on this last, such as Phillip and City.
When 7000 and 8000 came out, they replaced 8695 and became the default last, however 8695 still can be ordered as special request.
Construction
Profile says this is a standard sneaker construction, the whole sole is glued on.
Close look found there are two layers and the upper one seemed welt? But why does a sneaker need welt? My guess is like Blake Rapid construction but replacing stitches to glue.
Very unique branded outsole. I always like this special thing.
Leather
Off white nubuck is very easy to stain. I feel smooth leather is more adorable.
Details
Cushioned heel cup is really comfortable, and we see some dress boots had used this design.
Conclusion
The insole is still veg-tanned leather and the comfort is marvelous. To pair this sharp toe shape, the outfit cannot be too casual.