This pair is not my own shoes, but shared by a reader and he asked for a review of the quality of his pair.
Sanders is also from the centre of shoemaking in the world, Northampton, UK. As a traditional shoemaker with heritage, Sanders is not widely discussed in dress shoe community but still leads a great life, why? Because its target is workwear hobbyists, and mostly from Japan. There is a Military collection exclusively offered to Asia, and this pair is one of them.
Let us have a look.
Unboxing
Navy shoe box can never be wrong, and the sticker is full on the side. Shoe model name is Military Derby Shoes, leather is Burgundy Polishing Leather. Polishing Leather is another name of bookbinder. Model number 1128R, R normally stands for rubber sole. Size UK 6.5.
A flannel like cloth with golden logo.
Because the shoes have been worn, I am not sure whether brand new could have something else such as shoe bags and so on.
Last
Not so familiar with Sanders lasts, and this one is truly round and only suitable for workwear or country shoes.
Pattern
A five eyelet derby with cap toe, nothing too dramatic, however, one design element pushes the rough feeling far beyond.
The distant and parallel three threads on cap toe and derby ear make the “stupid” or you can call it rough feeling much more prominent. It is a style choice and I have no inclination.
Leather
Bookbinder is sought after for its high shine and no need for care. Why do people like shining shoes? I have no idea.
If without the fine creases, it will be mistaken for shell cordovan.
Bookbinder is a kind of corrected grain leather. Theoretically, no one will correct fine and great leather, so corrected leather is bad leather from the raw substrate perspective. Another angle does not say it is good as well, durability.
This spot is where shoe lace wears frequently, and the top layer peeled off. The grinded substrate is revealed.
Except professional and harsh repair, no one can fix this comparing with calf, some shoe cream can have it done.
Some say I never expect wearing a pair of shoes too many years, never mind. Great.
工艺
360度固特异缝制。在很多乡村款式的鞋上,能看到缝线是一整圈的,尤其是配上暴风缝。但是在普通鞋款上,就Allen Edmonds喜欢标榜自己用这个。我也不太清楚这个和270度相比的优劣在哪里。
沿条走线是很标准的工厂产品,精细度一般,看腰部的缝线和皮革的空隙有多远。
鞋里的鞋垫皮,前端还能看到很多凝固的胶水。
鞋底
很中规中矩的胶底,但是不是耳熟能详的Dainite,也不是Vibram的,而是ITSHIDE公司的Commando底。在我印象里面,这个Commando底应该是更粗犷的登山底吧。
其他细节
鞋子侧面的各种信息,非常全面,做的最好的,应该是最下面一条的生产批次,追述性很好。
鞋垫上,商标的下面,写了是军事线产品。
后跟外侧,有商标。这种商品,其实我个人是喜欢的,突然让我说,我能想到一些奢侈品牌的鞋子爱这么干,然后天木兰会这么干,真的正装男鞋,因为崇尚低调内敛,所以都是不会有的。
总结
没学方面的任何评价,都是一家之言,不用放在心上。但是做工,皮革,这还是一定程度有评判标准的,大家看之。
看过这双鞋,我觉得虽然他家也有不少正装的款式,兴趣不太有了。
只能說200英鎊有更多更好的選擇
给几个选项呢?