French dress shoe brands are actually well-known in China. A lot of people think Berluti the best in this category. Yes, that’s right from fame perspetive, but those who know more about shoes know that the statement is questionable.
If someone jumps out and says John Lobb is a French brand, that’s a good point, but let us leave it to England for now.
French dress shoe brands are even more than their neighbor Britain across the sea. However, they are all OEM except for a very few brands. The high-end Aubercy uses Enzo Bonafe to make the shoes, and mid-range ones such as J.M. LeGazel asked Carlos Santos to do it. Then the entry-level ones are basically made in Spain, such as Septieme Larguer.
But regardless of the brand, French shoes have a famous characteristic, narrow.
As many people know, Berluti normally is half size smaller.
The reason must be that the feet of the French are relatively narrow, so the French brand conforms to its mainstream market. But look closely, narrow is on the one hand, the shape is the key on the other hand.
Because Carlos Santos makes shoes for several French brands, one of its last called 234 is aimed at the French market, we can make a comparison with its other lasts to check my point.
This pattern is alike Dover from Edward Green but here we only focus on last.
Toe shape may give the feeling of Edward Green’s 82 last, but notice the outer curve of the shoe, there is no obvious extrusion! It is unreasonable, common British lasts, is like this.
John Lobb 8000 last, you can see the bulge on the outside.
What does a last suitable for Chinese look like?
Two lasts from Chinese shoemaker Oct Tenth, the bulge on the outside is even more excessive.
The left is 234 last, and 291 last on the right.
At the widest point of the shoe, 291 last is normal, and 234 last either has none or the bulge is far behind.
This is also the problem I pointed out in my review of Joffre from Septieme Larguer.
Summary
French shoes, if not adapted to the world market, must be cautious when buying!