As a bespoke shoemaker, Maftei has made a lot of shoes, when we look at the shoes, it is more like a gallery. Each pair is different and full of characteristics. Let us look at this pair hunting derby.
Last
Last Pei is the first Maftei last I met, and after seeing so many more, it is still the most iconic one. It works fine both on formal oxfords and casual derbies. Last Pei has the very Austrian flavor with square round and high toe box.
Pattern
This is a very standard pair of Blucher, or you can call it American Derby. This name is very inaccurate, because France, or Italy, there are also many Derbies from France and Italy only have small ear around lace area.
Apron, also known as Pond is a classic element for Derby and loafer.
Maftei does not name this pair and only call it by the style category, Hunting Derby.
Why this name? It would be necessary to mention J. M. Weston. J. M. Weston has two most popular models: 180 loafer and Demi Chasse.
But Demi Chasse has a predecessor, and that is Chasse.
The difference is that the front seam of Chasse is reverse stitched.
Chasse means Hunting in French, So this style is Hunting Derby in the eyes of those who know shoes.
This pair also adds the element of 360-degree full-shoe Norwegian stitches.
Egon Schiele is an Austrian Expressionist painter who studied under Gustav Klimt.
Primarily a portrait painter, he also did a certain number of landscapes.
The name was given because the main color of his paintings is dark brown with a little red, quite similar to this pair. Mr. Maftei has a deep devotion to colour.
Leather
This pair is made of scotch grain. This leather with the Norwegian stitching and the hunting derby style is an absolute hit. I believe it enjoys the time outdoors very much!
Outsole
I’ve seen Maftei shoes with pegged wood and handstitched blind waist soles, and they all feel great, but Norwegian-stitched shoes are too rough and lack of aesthetics.
Details
Bright yellow piping on the edge of leather is much lovely and vivid.
Corthay injected the same element on a more refined oxford model, Vendome.
Does it improve the aesthetics and refinement of the shoe?
Summary
The Hunting Derby, as Egon Schiele paintings of creativity and rich color, roughness in the burst of delicate luster, to people in the know.
倒數第四張圖 兩邊好像縫的不大一樣?
能具体一点吗?我没看出来。
這張兩邊的U好像不是很一樣 還是只是單純角度的問題
拍摄角度