Maftei is famous for its one signature model, seamless wholecut oxford. According to ShoeGazing, seamless wholecut was invented in 1970s by an English shoemaker, who was an outworker and made this model for some shops.
The number of shoemakers who can make this style may not be small, for example, LU Yang in China is proficient in it. But Maftei is still regarded as the most skilled one of this technology, because he has done it for a long time and practice makes perfect.
Maftei named this style “Onepiece”.
Let us check out this pair.
Unboxing
The shoebox made of paper is somehow too large, and shoes inside can move freely which is a bad thing for protection.
Shoe bags are made of dark grey Herringbone tweed. I love the dense feeling of shoe bags as they are very functional.
Last
This angel better reflects the characteristics of Maftei’s last.
We look at the right foot first, the banana last is particularly noticeable. This is also something I find less aesthetically pleasing. The banana last does conform more to the shape of a human foot, but with this view, it just doesn’t look good.
The most internationally recognised banana last is from Edudard Meire Germany, whose shoes are made by Crockett & Jones, however the last is provided by themselves, the banana last, called Peduform.
In fact, Edward Green 202 last also has a slight flavour of the Banana last, but it’s quite a bit more restrained, and looks a lot better at this angle.
We can argue that the Central Europeans are still emphasizing function over aesthetics.
On the left foot, it’s the transition curve from instep to forefoot that is so pronounced that it could be considered a feature limited to bespoke shoes. But then, it doesn’t press the top of the foot very much, why? Because it has a higher toe box, so there is still space from the vamp to the top of the foot.
The top view should be the best angle of the Maftei last.
Many people can only see its big head, but they don’t notice that it’s actually quite elongated, so it’s just the length and width are enlarged, so it doesn’t give the impression of a long and pointed shoe.
It always makes me wonder why stretching the shoes.
Pattern
As a pair of seamless wholecut Oxfords, there’s not much upper design to speak of.
The laces go to the side, the so-called Sidelaced, which gives the impression of a cheongsam, or the Lazy Chelsea, a low ankle boots, which are all seamless wholecut.
Seamless heel.
Like Jesper said, seamless wholecut is a little less durable compared to other shoes due to the fact that the pull on the leather is very strong. That’s for sure.
But the person who pursues such a style is definitely someone who knows what he’s doing, and I think it’s too unlikely for you to say that he can wear the upper out and wear it down.
Colour
This black and red patina is Maftei’s signature colour and i think it has a very astonishing name, Darth Vader.
Construction
The stitch density of each brand is fixed, and for hand stitching, it is the result of the tools and long practice.
Outsole
Extreme waist cinching. I only care if it looks good, and I don’t care about the value. I’ve been shown a more extreme cinched waist from WM1978. My point is always that what we are looking for is beauty.
In addition to the thickness, there is the straight line raised in the middle and the curvature of the two lines coming from the forefoot, as well as the location of the logo hit.
The finish of the copper studs on the heel is also signature. The triple flower gathering plus the rubber part as well. I wouldn’t say how extraordinary it is, but it’s nice to keep it as its own label.
The bottom colour shows scrape out of the slight vicissitudes, but also has an industrial-style sole texture, or a little bit of high-level flavour.
Conclusion
Seamless wholecut is nothing special, but only to Maftei.