I have always been surprised that J.M. Weston 180, the invincible classic penny Loafer, the ace player in the Ivy world, is never copied by Chinese dress shoe brands. If you look at Japanese brands, almost everyone does it. I own two pairs 180 from J.M.Weston and I bought them for fame. In the beginning they were not so attractive to me as they are too “old”, but this style indeed makes people more and more fascinated. Just like everyone becomes old inevitably, old shoes are final destination of shoe enthusiasts.
When I saw Carlos Santos had this model in the catalog, I ordered it unceremoniously. Let us have a look.
Unboxing
It seems that Carlos Santos’ shoebox is getting more and more pleasing to the eye, probably because I have seen it too many times. But one thing that is really commendable is the texture and hardness of the shoe box. That shoeboxes are not easily damaged is really important as more and more purchases happen online.
In the lower left corner of the side, a relatively small piece of paper is pasted. This piece is very small, but it contains all the information needed. Style 4890, leather black calf leather, construction Goodyear, leather sole, last 450. Size UK5.
Uncover lids, shoe bags, small cards and shoehorns.
Golden print paper with brand logo, the texture is very good, however the paper cannot be kneaded, if it is flat, it is quite good looking.
Last
I think last 450 copies J.M.Weston last to a completion of 95 percent. I even wondered if this last was particularly easy to imitate.
Pattern
If you see this shoe from a distance, you will think that this is J.M. Weston’s 180. Top chubby fighter, John Lobb’s Lopez needs to stand behind. Round to the extreme to build another expression of elegance.
In my eyes, the most iconic thing about 180 loafer is the way the two pieces of leather are joined in the apron area, with thin edges and then sewn into a sharp edge. As for the high wall, it is a last-shaped feature. Split toe which is indeed rare on Loafer was implemented by 180 in a very low-key way.
The heel is this way of coming up in a straight line and then covering the collar with a hem. In addition to seamless and dog tail, this is the way I also like it.
It seems everything is a classic.
Why is Carlos Santos just a tribute, not a complete reproduction? Because of the shape of vacant on penny strap. Loafer 180 has a narrower one, while Carlos Santos draws more rounded features from John Lobb Lopez.
Construction
Classic Carlos Santos main line welt finishing, this 45-degree chamfer, although simple, has a really good effect. From top view, the welt seems very narrow.
Out Sole
The sole of the main line is open channel. Carlos Santos’ Handgrade is closed channel and sole is painted golden. Golden sole is particularly good, but the bad thing is that a brand has different grades, and high grades are easily dragged down by low grades.
Summary
You don’t need to find an angle or professional skill to shoot the real classics, just throw them there, and they look always the best.