Masegrove was an English shoe brand now defunct. It was rumored that at its later stage, it was made by Loake. Suddenly I feel Loake of yesterday is Crockett & Jones of today making shoes for many other brands.
On the pair of K Shoes (same vintage English shoemaker), we saw wonderful leather quality and hidden stitches on welt, let us check this pair.
Firstly we can say the last is not very English, and if you know the trend of shoes in different years, you can tell this last is Italian from 1980s. I have to admit the influence of Italy was and is so strong in fashion field.
Secondly, I cannot figure out why Italian preferred this super square toe when their tailoring is so soft and lean.
A pair of very unpopular three eyelets derby. If no one told you this is English shoes, you probably said they are Italian.
Three eyelets derby can be very elegant such as Highbury from Crockett & Jones and this pair follows the way of Budapester.
Other design elements are influenced by Italy so much as well.
We see this pair of shoes from profile view, and it is clearer.
The stitches on the upper is not connecting leather, and only for decoration, which is nothing new, however, if you look at the so called stitches again, you would find they are not stitches but quite narrow leather strap, and the two straps twisted again to form the stitches.
This creation is quite intriguing. Although I don’t appreciate the whole beauty of these shoes, I feel this feature can make fantastic shoes without doubt. This element cannot be achieved by machine.
To match the very coarse twisted straps, stitches (this time they are real stitches) on the ears use very thick threads. The curvy line parallels with the outline of ears.
This pair is a NOS, New Old Stock, I have not worn. When I bent the upper, the crease is fine however the coating is quite unsatisfactory.
Dew water on the grass attached to the upper and the leather cannot absorb it, I don’t think this is a sign of good Aniline leather.
The welt is not exquiste at all, no finishing.
Fudge was not forgotten.
Contrary to the bare welt, the sole is quite complicated. Closed channel sole is not very universal in English shoes.
Then the fudge on the edge is very complex, even you have suitable tools, it cannot be done in one step.
Lastly, the sole was painted to green, wonderful.
It writes Hand crafted thonging, Made in England. Thonging is about the upper twisted strap.
Heel is full rubber.
There is rounding or should we say cutting on sole edge, when most brands cut the welt, this pair cut lower part which is the out sole.
Heel is super high, maybe at that time men loved to wear high heel shoes?
The materials are not so good.
Midsole is not made of leather, but some fluffy compacted things. It could be paper board.
Half sock lining is leather and with many holes for better respiration.
The lining information is not decipherable now.
An pair of Italian shoes made in Northampton. Many design elements but now overly successful. We can still find some inspiration from it.