I have many pairs of John Lobb shoes, it seems that everything has been talked about, even the model is different, that is just for one or two sentences. But the change is on me, when I have seen more shoes from more makers, more eras, I always spot new points on old things.
Let us have a loot at this pair together.
Pattern
This is a pair of Oxford, but for most people, it is not so easy to make the call by the first sight. Ghillie lacing area is more common in France, and John Lobb is a French brand which makes all the sense. But Ghillie sees friends of Derby, Oxford? This is a bold try. And the lacing area use different texture of suede leather, makes it even more playful.
Ghillie is already new to many shoe aficionados, and paired with two eyelets derby, then plus oxford, you have to admit, John Lobb is not boring, only the boring models sell.
Last
Last 0215, the small round toe, even proportionally it is not elongated, the last is still glowing French as it is very narrow.
Leather and Colour
The leather is identical to the pair of Wells, both navy boxcalf. But this navy box is not very good, at least based on the level of John Lobb, it is fine however the coating seems very dry and old.
Nowadays, this leather cannot be seen on this seasonal offerings.
Construction
Maybe someone is amazed by the Ghillie style and mixture of two eye derby and oxford, but the construction ticks me the most on this pair of shoes.
The construction of John Lobb Classic line is boring, no fudge, average stitches per inch.
However, the sole is quite thin.
This thin appearance is achieved by both thin outsole and thin welt. What makes thin the good? The answer is the tradition of Westend bespoke shoemaking. If you have chance to check the bespoke shoes there, you can see this is even an iconic feature.
Theoretically, the thin sole is saying the shoes are very tender and the wearer does not need walk too much, no mention of harsh roads.
The Ready to Wear of John Lobb inherits this feature.
Details
The lining uses the same leather of the upper.
And because the writing of this information is black and not contrast enough on navy lining, this is moved to the tongue lining. This explains why both Gaziano & Girling and Yohei Fukuda choose here to remark.
The heel is 3 cm which is quite normal.
However, when you see from this angle, the heel seems much lower. The reason is the waist is a little bevelled, and the heel leather is modeled to fit the shape from waist to heel.
Fit
Last 7000 and 8000 fit me good of 5 E, but last 0215 is narrow, so 5.5 E is perfect.
Conclusion
Checking the shoes which I feel I am familiar with is quite interesting as I am always able to find something I did not observe, it is not the shoes become better or worse, but my eyes are better trained.