鞋子由于本周二才从意大利寄出,然后在海关处被查验,无法在现场让各位参观者观摩和打分,万分遗憾。
虽然有不如意,但毕竟这些大师的评分都到了,也完全是客观的(鞋子无标识,也完全不认识,不了解中国的鞋匠),所以这个结果,一定是有绝对的置信度。
话不多说,直接按倒序公布成绩。评委的英文评价,我未做任何修改,包含错别字、语法。总分60分。
第七名 赵准
总分:37.5
奥山大
工艺:6.5
美学:6.5
评语:interesteing and complicated design, may be it is a charm but the lines and stitching seems to be too random. Out stitching is neat, but the edge of the sole is a little wavy. Good attempt for the many layers and the shape of the heel. If it’s neater much better. Good bottom sanding work.
Daniel Wegan
工艺:6
美学:6.5
评语:Unique design but lacks precission and does not look confident exicution and the machine stitching is very bad. The stitching on the sole is nice but the edge is very rund and does not for make a nice clean edge. The thin layers in the heel is a nice feature. but the shape is not very attractive and could us cleaner work. bottoms are nice and clean.
Roberto Ugolini
工艺:6
美学:6
Nice stitching sole but the edge is very rund, Interesting design but the stitching of the upper need to be reviewed because in some places they are irregular, Clean sole an very good nail work on the heel.
第六名 咩咩咩
总分:38
奥山大
工艺:6.5
美学:6.5
评语:Simple but charming design and pattern work. If it’s more alined with the last, it would have been much better. neat upper stitching, the out stitching need to be improved. Finishing of the edge of the sole and heel should be improved. Bottom finish as well. Overall need more attention on the bottom work.
Daniel Wegan
工艺:6.5
美学:6.5
评语:Unique Interpretation of the style. the wing part has a nice proportion to the last but the facings is much to small for the shape of the last, The sole stitching is not very straight and need improvement as well as the marking of the stitches. The waist has nice shape but has scratchings and the channel is very visible. The shape of the heel is nice in profile but the bottom is rough with uneven finish. The breast of the heel is smooth but leather has friction burn. Bottom is very rough with uneven color and texture. The sole is the area that need most improvement.
Roberto Ugolini
工艺:6
美学:6
评语:Over all very simple and clean model, The shape is uninteresting, To review the stitching of the sole (too long stitching and in some sections not aligned). Bottom sole is very rough with uneven color and texture.
第五名 邹智光
总分:41
奥山大
工艺:7
美学:7
评语:Interesting and complicated design and pattern work , good attempt but if the lines are cleaner, it would have been much better. neat upper stitching, out stitching and iron work need to be cleaner, good bottom finish.
Daniel Wegan
工艺:6.5
美学:6
评语:Interesting design of the pattern but Little bit poor making of the upper in some areas. Some of the stitching of the upper is inside the hole of a broguing. Sole stitching is quite uneven but has nice stitch markings. Having one round corner of the heel is a nice functional feature. But the rest of the heel is quite poor shape around the seat. Waist narrow on the inside but has not smooth shape and makes it look less nice. The bottom pf the sole has a nice smooth finish.
Roberto Ugolini
工艺:7
美学:7.5
评语:Interesting design of the pattern but to review the line of stitching. Sole stitching is quite uneven but over all good. Waist narrow on the inside very nice design even if the finish is a bit uneven. Good finishing of the sole.
第四名 杨宇帆
总分:45
奥山大
工艺:7.5
美学:7.5
评语:Good pattern work. Special upper stitching detail. Neat sole and heel edge, but should add more character little too normal, neat and small outstiching.
Daniel Wegan
工艺:8
美学:7.5
评语:Good pattern with good proportions and upper is clean with nice stitching and preparation. Chain stitch is nice and clean. The sole stitching is nice and the fudging is clean. Waist would look a better is it was a little bit thinner. Heel has good shape and clean top piece but would look better if the seat was closer to the shoe. Sole is smooth but have uniform color and could do with improving the ironing.
Roberto Ugolini
工艺:7.5
美学:7
评语:Very clean aesthetic. Good stitching of the upper even if in some parts it is not perfect. Sole edge finishing uninteresting. Irregular sole bottom. Over all an uninteresting shoes.
第三名 曾杰
总分:47.5
奥山大
工艺:7.5
美学:7.5
评语:Good pattern work, neat upper stitching. Good try for the narrow and thin bevelled waist.
Daniel Wegan
工艺:8
美学:8.5
评语:Good looking pattern wit nice proportions. Upper stitching is very nice as well as skiving. Best upper of the competition. Sole stitching is little bit uneven but edge is nice and straight. Waist has good shape but outside is better than inside. Heel has good shape but seat is very un even and under cut. Bottom finish is very good and a well executed peach bottom. Top piece is has nice shape. Sole could use some good edge ironing.
Roberto Ugolini
工艺:8
美学:8
评语:Good looking model, Upper stitching is nice, Sole stitching to be reviewed at the moment a bit irregular, Good finishing of the edges but sole to be finished better.
第二名 杨万华
总分:48
奥山大
工艺:8
美学:8
评语:Very neat norwegian welted stitching. It would be much better if he used(had) proper iron for out stitch. Clean, neat edgy sole work, neat upper stitching. Balanced pattern work, nice edgy heel.
Daniel Wegan
工艺:8.5
美学:7.5
评语:Norwegian stitching is very good and clean. Would be better if sole stitches was marked out better. Good sole edge with smooth finish but would better with a better iron. Upper stitching is nice and straight. Chain stitch detail is interesting. Pattern is nice with good proportions and skilled upper making. Heel is clean but bottom is very scratching and over sanded. Slightly un even color of bottom.
Roberto Ugolini
工艺:8
美学:8
评语:Very clean upper design the choice of a single upper stitching is also interesting. Norwegian stitching is good. Good stitching sole in line with the Norwegian stitching. Good finishing of the sole edge with a very aggressive to line. Bottom sole not perfect.
第一名 金生
总分:48.5
奥山大
工艺:8.5
美学:8.5
评语:He’s done a very difficult pattern and upper work very well. Good neat upper stitching skill. Bold but classic design which is not easy. Good bottom iron work. It would be much better if the heel was cleaner. Be careful not to cut the upper with knife during bottom work. Neat and small out stitch work.
Daniel Wegan
工艺:7.5
美学:8
评语:Quite nice pattern with some nice features and details. Nice proportions especially considering the many details. Stitching and cutting of the upper is a little bit rough in some areas and the broguing is very spaced out. Metal inlay in heel is nice but the shape of the heel is very bumpy with a very rough seat. The finish of the sole is nice and it has nice smooth feeling. Wheeling is good but I think unnecessary. Good ironing would be nice. The upper has many cuts and scratches. Maker should be more careful as it makes a nice designed shoe look very poor. The sole stitching is nice and the edge of sole has nice pronounced lips but surface is a bit too rough, The ridge toe is done well and proportional. The redge on the heel is too small and makes it hard to notice.
Roberto Ugolini
工艺:7.5
美学:8.5
评语:Very interesting model especially for the many details. Stitching of the upper perhaps better with a thinner thread. Very good sole stitching with a good finishing of the sole edge. The design of the tip is very interesting. The sole is not bad even in some places it is a bit dirty.
不翻译的原因,是怕导致一些错误的信息。万分感谢这三位评委的无私支持!
希望国内有更多的鞋匠可以拿出到世界上一争高下的作品!