My Shoe Collection, Alessio from Berluti

Alessandro Berluti is an Italian who founded his eponymous brand in France and invented Wholecut oxford in the meantime.

This iconic model made Berluti very sought after among exquisite connoisseurs in his era, then his daughter in law Olga made Berluti great again with the invention of Patina.

1895 collection is to memorize the founder with a modern twist.

In dress shoes field, Berluti is doubtlessly the leader, no matter what style it starts, many brands follow suit.

I don’t feel I am the fan of Berluti as it is too Avant Garde or aggressive, however I show all my respect to its endless innovation.

Let us check this pair 1895 wholecut oxford.

Pattern

Wholecut oxford with three eyelets. Pattern wise, there is not too many things can be talked as the purpose of this design is to eliminate anything but the silhouette of the shoes.

Last

I believe many Berluti fans feel offended when first saw this last as Berluti is famous for its streamlined and aggressive aesthetics, such as its most iconic last Demesure speaks.

However, as the name of 1895 collection implies, the very original last of Berluti is just like this, and even rounder! Surprise? No, that is called decent, thank you.

Construction

Most models from Berluti are made with Blake construction which is the default choice of many French brands. French like to treat dress shoes as art pieces, consequently, construction serves for aesthetical pursuit.

This pair is Goodyear welted which is not so common on a pair of Berluti.

White threads and very loose stitch density make the construction more prominent. As the so called modern twist is add youth and sport feeling, this contrast is not a bad thing at all.

It is not the more used 270 Goodyear construction but 360 degree which was promoted by American brand Allen Edmonds. I think Berluti chose this for its rougher feeling.

Look at the stitch location on the welt, I am afraid it runs over of the edge!

Outsole

Full one piece rubber sole with Berluti logo, which is quite usual on sport shoes.

But the heel is very interesting.

Let me break down the layers one by one:

• The top layer is the welt where we can see the connection.
• The a layer of leather sole.
• A super thick rubber sole.
• Two layers of stacked leather.
• Top heel rubber sole.

So in a sense Berluti cares about quality and does not cut corner as they can attach a whole piece rubber sole on the leather sole.

Conclusion

Berluti always leads the way of dress shoes.