The news that JR in Germany closed the factory surprised dress shoes lovers.
In welted shoe industry, it is not uncommon to go bankrupt. For example, in 2021, there were British Foster & Son and Alfred Sargent, two great brands were gone.
Of course, there are many small-scale new brands all over the world.
However, JR, as a high-end brand with high market share, has not heard of any financial difficulties, and decided to close the factory resolutely, which has to be said to be the biggest negative vote in the industry.
Speaking of leather soles, Two most well-known brands are JR in Germany and J.F.Baker in Britain, both are recognized by everyone because of oak vegetable tanning, long tanning process, the best wear resistance and the highest price.
At other times, I saw vegetable tanned leather in South America, or I seem to see the manufacturer of leather soles in the configuration list of some brands.
Today, when I was looking at shoes, I saw a changed sole, and I found it through the name on it.
It’s Italy’s Volpi.
Vopli is not only the name of this tannery, but also the name of this group, because it also holds other tanneries, and then although each one makes vegetable tanned leather soles, each one will use an independent trademark.
I think this form is also good. When you see the trademark, you will know the characteristics of the products you buy.
Volpi’s own leather factory uses European cowhide, and then chestnut vegetable tanning. European cowhide is used because the fibers are denser and have fewer scars, and then the thickness can be up to 5.5 mm.
Chestnut vegetable tanning is a tradition in Italian with good wear resistance and water resistance.
The products produced by this factory use Lyons & Volpi and Cortina as trademarks.
Although Volpi uses its own factory, it is only an entry-level product, and it is another Rocca leather factory.
This Genoese tannery with an actual history longer than Volpi was acquired by Volpi in 1997.
The process is still chestnut vegetable tanning, but the tanning is longer, so the wear resistance and water resistance are better. Leather is dark brown.
It is divided into Super Prime and Prime levels, but where is the difference, it is not clear.
Then, as a distributor, we are still selling a vegetable tanned leather sole from South America, Super Quality Sole.
This kind of tanning liquid is made of some hard wood in South America, which is the representative and historical inheritance of high-end vegetable tanning in America. The most famous leather factories in history are Howes and Westfield.
Leather is reddish in color, but the degree of wear resistance is not clear whether it is better or not, although the name is awesome.
Summary
I am always thinking about whether the demand for leather soles is really getting less and less. I think the answer is probably yes. Although I have always felt that leather soles are more breathable subjectively, if I am given rubber soles, I will not say that they are not good or exclusive.
Considering the wear resistance and adaptability in rainy days, leather soles may fade out due to functional defects, but at the same time, due to the lack of functionality, they are becoming more and more luxury goods. Look at the leather soles that are selling more and more expensive.