This is not my first encounter of full blind stitched shoes, but the one I am crazy for.
Let us have a look together.
Unboxing
Quite boring shoe box, the trademark is even off center. Because Maftei only focuses bespoke service, this so-called Ready To Wear product is not so accomplished.
Packed directly in a blue shoe bag. The thickness of the shoe bag is quite enough, but the material does not seem to be very good.
Last
Although the first impression should focus on upper design, we still start with the last because the last is the bone of the shoe.
Firstly it is a banana shape last which is widely spread in Central Europe, specifically Austria and Germany. Banana last is more in line with the shape of the human feet, but since everyone can still wear British shoes, I prefer to see the adherence to this last as a local aesthetic experience. To a certain extent, banana lasts are friendly to wide feet.
Another feature is the large round head with slight elongation. Central Europe is heavily influenced by Italy. I have seen some German shoes from a remote era, and they do not have elongated characteristics.
Actually, this is the angle that made me choose this Henry last. It’s more of an old-school British feel. The outer side of the banana last protrudes, and on this relatively rounded last, the harmony is much higher.
In my belief that this is a regional aesthetic, the strong outward turn of the banana last at 45 degrees on the outside is not acceptable to everyone.
The heel has a strong curvature, but for me, the heel is still relatively roomy. This may still provide some universality.
Pattern
Mozart is a pair of Oxfords with brogue cap toe. This pair of shoes was originally for high-end players. The small perforation creates a classical beauty.
Outsole
First of all, the bevelled waist. You may have seen the extreme narrow waist made by Maftei. Although aesthetically it is already harmonious, I don’t recognize things that are too sharp, and I think the traditional British approach of moderation is good. The sole is consistent with the upper, painted black.
Copper nails on the heel, three gathered.
From another angle of light, it seems that you can see the shape of fiddleback waist, which is very peculiar.
Craftsmanship
Full blind stitched construction cannot be found anywhere, especially on Ready To Wear shoes.
English Heel is another detail that bespoke shoemakers care. Gaziano & Girling brought many bespoke elements into Ready To Wear, and now Maftei takes over the baton and adds more.
Shoe Tree
hinged hollow shoe tree.
Details
The characteristics of Mr. Maftei, what is the purpose of such conservative classical shoes, with orange-red lining?
Summary
The classical taste of this pair of shoes comes more from the upper design, the last looks British at first glance, and it is still integrated into the Italian style. Bright orange lining is the expression of Mr. Maftei’s hormones. Full blind stitched construction plus London Waist and English heel is the old fully customized style bone.