This model was actually co-developed by Carlos Santos and Swedish select shoe shop Skoaktiebolaget. Skoaktiebolaget is the first shop carrying Carlos Santos and fairly speaking, without Skoaktiebolaget, Carlos Santos cannot get the momentum in shoe enthusiast commnutiy.
They released 4 models if I don’t remember wrong, and this one is my favorite.
Let us have a look.
Unboxing
Black textured shoe box. Design wise, nothing extraordinary, but functionality wise, the material is very thick and hard which protects the shoes very well and keeps in shape.
Model number is 7905, leather is black aniline but source is not mentioned. Carlos Santos purchases tons of leather from Du Puy and Annonay, if this one is not hand painted, the leather probably comes from Annonay. Construction, closed channel Goodyear Welted. Last 389. Size is UK5.
Remove the cover, a small pamphlet, a shoehorn lie on the top. The plastic shoe horn is useful for sure but the touch is not very luxury.
Pattern
You see the name of this model, Swan. What does Swan mean on a pair of dress shoes? The answer is known to many shoe enthusiasts. Because one brand and its most iconic model has this design element which is model Chelsea from English brand Edward Green.
This is a quite boring pair of cap toe oxford, at least by the first sight, however, the decorative line aside the lace area is a Swan neck. That is how the name and reputation built.
This element is extensively copied from many brands, such as model 101440 from Spanish entry brand Meermin.
But then the cooperation between John Lobb and English sports car Aston Martin shot the excitement to the sky.
Afterwards, I firmly believe that Swan neck matches plain toe best.
Gaziano & Girling has model Strands which has Swan element but with medallion on the toe.
The most impact model comes from Spanish bespoke shoemaker Ramon Cuberta.
Product from Vass is also not bad.
Sadly we also came across bad shoes such as Ellacombe from Herring. The elements seem just off on this last and the relationship to each other.
Finally, 7905, Swan from Carlos Santos stands before my eyes.
Cap toe Swan neck!
In fact, Carmina has the same design, model 954.
What is the difference?
Let us put lasts aside, focus on pattern only. The difference is the curve of the Swan neck. Carlos Santos love aggressive lines, you can find this characteristic on its Chelsea boots and Chukka boots.
So is this one.
Last
The toe is very round, however it is slightly elongated and seems more like last 7000 from John Lobb.
Outsole
Gold sole, the signature of Carlos Santos Handgrade. It may not be difficult to make, but to inject brand image to customers is very important.
Welt
I have some Carlos Santos Main collection shoes, it is open channel Goodyear welted, however the welt is angled and very neat. Handgrade adds a process of fudging which should be better, however the end effect is disappointing. Long story short, the welt is too wide. How comes the result? In fact, the welt width of both Main collection and Handgrade is the same, while main collection angled which makes it looks narrower, Handgrade fudged which actually makes welt wider. Why? Because exquisite fudge draw the attention here, the edge of the welt. To counter this issue, maybe the welt needs to be grind more.
Details
Patch on the heel which is the least option I prefer. This design is not rare and many brands, even as bespoke house John Lobb St. James utilized, I just don’t like it.
Conclusion
Super elegant Swan neck cap toe oxford, I love them so much!