The news that JR in Germany closed the factory surprised dress shoes lovers. In welted shoe industry, it is not uncommon to go bankrupt. For example, in 2021, there were British Foster & Son and Alfred Sargent, two great brands were gone. Post Views: 2,535
Category: Leather
English tannery Charles F. Stead is regarded the best suede supplier, at least in shoemaking industry. It offers much more leather than the three collection I talk here, however these three are most used and recognized. Post Views: 2,945
很多人调侃喜欢看皮鞋皮质的人，没人会跪在地上看你的鞋。但是作为自己最喜爱的物件，会把玩，应该是很正常的吧。我们把它当做一个有实用价值的工艺品，关注它的一切细节，然后精益求精，何罪之有啊！ 什么是好皮？简单两句话，折痕细腻，镀层薄（最好没有）。 因为有这个结论呢？这个结论的依据是什么呢？ 答案是，物质上，好的东西，真的不需要教化。 我总是举这个例子，你看到布加迪和比亚迪，就算是对车一点也不懂，也不用谁告诉你，哪个是更好的。 Post Views: 235
Stiffener is used to keep the shape of toe and heel of dress shoes. This thing can be divided into three grades. Post Views: 2,353
Cowhide comes from everywhere in the world. Post Views: 2,248
I am a dress shoe enthusiast, and I am very experienced in the aging of cowhide. I can easily judge whether it is good or bad. In the past, I thought crocodile leather and cowhide might be completely different worlds. But later I learned that the logic is consistent. Post Views: 1,769
做包用的皮，不是如果太长要割的那个皮。 我长久以来都有一个观点，是皮鞋（只谈我们视野中的，不谈大多数人穿的那种）的皮革等级要远远高于包的皮革。 Post Views: 478
I dare not say that what I said is completely correct, It is just all this information comes from industry insiders, it should have a high confidence coefficient. Why is there such a big difficulty? Isn’t it just knowledge? Because crocodile leather is limited to very affluent few, the flow of information does not circulate
注：曾经有请Mattina分享过一篇鞋面缝线种类的知识小品纹，这次，我邀请了Oct Tenth手工鞋的厂长，给大家从行内人的角度，来介绍一下反绒皮。 每当让我介绍皮料的时候，总会有一种管中窥豹的不自信感，因为皮料实在是太多了，而且同样的皮厂、皮料款式都相同的情况下，也会出现不同国家、不同代理商拿到的皮料完全不一样的情况。所以我只能以我用的比较多的，以及我喜欢的皮料来做一个主观的分享。 Post Views: 1,203
说起反绒皮中的王者，比较资深的玩家，一定说得出来Janus这个名称，即使没那么深度的玩家，也说得出C.F.Stead这家英国的皮革厂。 Post Views: 991