An Interview with MD, Founder of Sarto Wu

Independent tailors always make people have a lot of fantasies or reverence. Compared with custom-made shops, they give people a closer feeling, and then there are not many marketing or storefront costs, so no matter what their price is, you will feel that they are paid to the people who make things for you, and there is a sense of psychological satisfaction. There are certainly not a few independent tailors in China, but there are not many who do their own clothes, and Zhang Xiao is definitely the first. Then there used to be Master Gong in Nanchang (now Master Gong’s status is unknown), and then there is the protagonist today, MD Wu. MD entered everyone’s field of vision very early, thanks to the propaganda of Brother Seven, and then gradually became silent, but in fact, it is still tirelessly torturing itself.

Look at his miserable life.

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The King of Value, RayKwok

I met Ray Kwok in 2021 and had a video chat for more than 2 hours.

At that time, he had a sentence that impressed me deeply, “Men are all configuration maniacs”. This sentence made me suddenly understand the composition of the product, including the product details page.

Give me a product that I personally experienced, the formal shoes of English last. A pair of black captoe Oxford, German Weinheimer boxcalf, Vibram sole, and some American heel half pads. Only fro 900 yuan. This price is really impossible for anyone in the industry to see. Ray said that many people scolded him. I laughed and said, I (as the boss of fp) want to scold you for your price.

This time I came to the factory where I played, and I got a deeper understanding of Ray Kwok.

When I said I wanted to help with the publicity, he said you’d better stop talking. If you speak for me, many people will scold you.

I was shocked to hear this sentence. First, I felt that he was really scolded a lot. Second, I didn’t accept any benefits, whether it was money or goods. I didn’t tell a lie. If you want to scold in this way, you can scold it.

So what is the deeper understanding of Ray this time? He is the head of configuration maniac, and he is an extreme material maniac.

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BRIO Atelier Changes

I picked up my bespoke jacket at BRIO Atelier on the weekend.

Because the Vintage Langyuan is an old building block, and the unite where BRIO is located is being remodeled, they temporarily moved to the second floor of Building 3 for the transition.

The space is bigger than the original shop, but because it is only a transition and there is nothing soft-packed, it is closer to the industrial feel.

I saw a lot of BRIO’s new products on the spot and this change is a response to the leisure trend and consumption degradation of clothing in China.

BRIO Atelier is one of the best bespoke tailoring workshops in China, and the one with the highest price.

First of all, in terms of style, it is Florence, Italy. It is said that the original pattern belongs to Corcos, a Japanese tailor, but absorbed George WANG’s taste and preferences.

Secondly, the production must be the best and finest in China, and the target is the precision of Paris and Milan.

Finally, in the choice of fabrics, there are very few shops where the vintage materials are more popular than current offerings, which may be due to the taste of fabrics collected by George in Europe.

This time, I have seen many products that are not suits.

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An Interview with HUANG Yan, A Female Chinese Bespoke Shoemaker

Many leather shoes lovers should have seen Huang Yan and even had a lot of contact with her. My little sister who used to be Mattina’s Shanghai store is also. I met her in 2021, when she returned to China and had not formally joined Mattina. Because of her artistic background, she joined Mattina to start her own shoemaking journey.

I contacted her several times on the way to ask about the progress and when we could try her service. The answer has always been that it will take time. Precipitation to this year, finally a little loose, accepted my interview.

Let’s learn the story of this shoemaker.

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Inheritance of Henry Poole in China

Saville Street is the coordinate axis of suit customization all over the world, and Henry Poole is the jewel in the crown.

The main reason why Henry Poole is powerful is its distinguished history and unique style.

Henry Poole, founded in 1806, is the well-deserved origin of British customization, and it is also a legend on Saville Street.

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An Interview with OUYANG Zongnan, the Chinese bespoke tailor in Milan

The progress of the industry is inseparable from competition and communication. In the past three to five years, the emergence of high-quality tailor shops in China can be said to improve the quality of customized clothing in China. At the same time, many people go abroad to study and bring back their original styles, such as Zhang Xiao and Riccardo.

The object of today’s interview is also a custom tailor who studied in Italy, OUYANG.

Let’s look at his story together.

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Visit Johnny Works Workshop

I have been intimate with Johnny for more than 6 years, but I haven’t seen him once. This time I came to Guangzhou, I finally had face-to-face communication.

Although the name of the founder is the brand, in the following, Johnny is the boss and Johnny refers to the brand.

Johnny started as a workboot maker, and later he made some formal shoes. But when I came here this time, I saw in his studio that most of them were still under development.

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Chinese Retro Shoemaker, Artisan Bobo

I made an exclusive interview with Chen Bo, the founder of Artisan Bobo, and then unpacked a pair of Greek loafers developed by Brother Qi. As I mentioned, I learned about this brand late, but when I first saw it, I found that its products were very distinctive, which made me shine. So what’s the unique method?

Artisan Bobo is first of all a “customized” brand, that is, a brand that can come to map or design and develop shoes together. Then he also has a lot of conventional styles. Finally, it is precisely the four retro shoes that really let everyone choose it: Grecian Slippers, Button Boots, Opera Pumps and Spats.

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