Florentine Tailoring Style

In my opinion, Florentine tailoring style has only been accepted by Chinese classic menswear enthusiasts in the last year or two.

There are shops like Phispoke which has always been this style for some time, but it is not very visible to many.

LiiYuan has been in this style for a few years, neither many people know.

Recently, it is Stile Renaissance, a Shanghai based tailoring house, makes this style suddenly enter the landscape of most consumers.

The very earliest and well-known influencer who favors Florentine style is the owner of BRIO, a Beijing based menswear boutique. His clothes were mainly made by master tailors, and it was until BRIO launched his own tailoring service that he brought his favorite Florentine style to the audience in a more convenient way.

Just like any genre, it has a long history, but its popularity in other regions is luck and opportunity.

西服分英式和意式,对西服有一定兴趣的人,都会认同这个说法。

英式就是硬,刚,给人铠甲感,让雄性气息散发。最好的模特莫过于脸叔Colin Firth。

顶级裁缝在这方面的修饰,登峰造极。

意式则为飘逸,轻松,衣服版型有修长质感。

这就是我们的刻板印象。这里我们不论对错,只说这只是意式的一个流派,即使意大利的成衣品牌,也不仅仅是这个风格,但是在定制领域,这个风格获得了全世界的认知。

我们看欧洲的许多买手店,如果推出自有品牌的西服,版型就是这样的,不管是不是选择在意大利制作。

在国内,带起这个风格,应该是上海的Ficus和那不勒斯皇后,以及更高价位的Lancer。

当我看到佛罗伦萨风格在国内兴起时,我的感觉是,也许是在求变,用新鲜的东西吸引客群。

假如你不是一个关注时尚的人,那么大概率是流行什么,你穿什么,但如果你花了不少精力在这方面,那么你更希望作潮流的引领者,而不是跟随者。于是,在什么最流行的时候,它已经被你抛在脑后(刻板印象的那不勒斯风格),而刚刚冒头或者小众的风格(佛罗伦萨风格)才是你彰显自己是弄潮儿的玩意。

当然,任何风格最后都会稳定下来喜欢它的客群。

那么何为佛罗伦萨风格呢?

我摘抄一下全世界公认的佛罗伦萨风格巅峰店铺,Liverano & Liverano官网的描述。

About Our House Style

The Liverano & Liverano aesthetic remains true to the Florentine tradition of tailoring. The Liverano jacket is clean and refined, yet masculine. It features a soft, sloped, and ever so slightly extended shoulder, the sleeve head is clean and connects to a full and curved sleeve to accommodate the arm at rest or in motion. The chest is full, yet without excess drape, and has a generous lapel which is cut straight that curves outwards with the signature Liverano & Liverano roll. The lapel also features a lower positioned gorge and breast pocket. The jacket is constructed using a single angled side dart and a slightly higher buttoning point, which emphasizes the upper part of the body. The waist is gently tapered and the skirt sits close to the hips with delicately open and sweeping quarters. The lapels together with the quarters create a trim and restrained silhouette resembling a mirrored half-moon figure.
The double breasted jacket is built on the same foundation as our single breasted house style with slight modifications, such as closed quarters, a slightly shorter length, and olive leaf shaped lapels. The trousers are always pleated with a medium rise buttoned fly and cuffs. The proportions and cut of a Liverano & Liverano garment ensure an elegant silhouette with a lasting impression.

我自己提取一下特征:

倾斜外展的肩膀。

圆弧的驳领和较低的串口。

高扣位。

收腰不明显。

事实上有两个特征,是我感受最深的,不管是看这些大牛的图,还是我自己穿Stile Renaissance的衣服,那就是外展的肩膀和不收腰。不收腰的技术特征是无前省,风格上则为腰部空间更足。

这两点与我对西服的需求就不太一致了。我希望肩膀平和窄,不过分修饰上身的雄壮,这一点上,那不勒斯风格(刻板印象)符合我需求。另一方面腰不细,那不是给大肚子的人穿的么?不符合我的好身材。这一点上,英式也好,那不勒斯也好,都比佛罗伦萨风格更符合我的期望。

那佛罗伦萨风格的吸引力在哪里呢?

答案是女性化的男性力量。

佛罗伦萨风格整体的弱修饰性,更加柔和的各个线条,给人温婉的感觉,加入了更多感性的元素。

而他的外展肩膀,所谓的大廓形,又不经意间形成了男性宽阔厚实的背部。

我们看英式和佛罗伦萨风格的后背,哪个会让你觉得这个男人更加强壮?

假如英式强调的是证明的倒三角,佛罗伦萨风格则是后背的阳刚之气。