Sartoria Dei Solari is the most eye-catching bespoke tailoring house in China.
There are two reasons. First, Riccardo ZHANG (Renjie), the founder, returned from studying Italian art and was influenced by genuine Milan style in the studio of the master Yuki Inoue. Riccardo is regarded as the second person besides ZHANG Xiao (the best individual bespoke tailor in China.
Another reason is that they take the independent tailor route. Although they are three young people together, they do all the work by themselves, without outsourcing or looking for workshops or factories to outsource. It can be thought that all your money is given to the people who make things for you.
The fabric of this suit is very interesting. It is the special order for Italian bespoke tailoring house Rubinacci from Drago, 150s flannel.
I think the pattern has more ingredients for the review, and the fabric is more personal. Of course, the two are inseparable.
My understanding of the so-called Milan style is nothing more than picking up wisdom on the internet.
The general idea is that Italy becomes more and more formal from south to north, emphasizing the sense of power.
In Milan, the political center, most of the clothes are worn by big men with status, so they are low-key and conservative, and the orientation of shoulders is closer to that of British style.
However, in terms of production, Italian soft lining and technology are still used.
This profile sees the full chest, clean side and broad shoulders.
Compared with Lii Yuan’s jacket, Solari is not long, and the waist is more obvious, but the shoulders are abduction again.
As far as the people whose aesthetic expression is suitable for Milan style are concerned, I think it is completely correct. Strong clothes need the wearer’s powerful image to support them, either their own strength is superb or their inner strength is unparalleled.
From this angle I am not qualified to wear Milan-style.
Solari doesn’t use shoulder cotton, but the chest liner goes directly to the shoulders. The shoulders that are soft but not stiff are really comfortable.
There is not much information about good canvas, lining and so on, but they have a great influence on the shape and comfort of clothes. Comfort, only when you have experienced it, can you be sure.
Drago’s 150s worsted flannel is so great. I knew that gray flannel is elegant, old and approachable, and every man must have something in his closet. Then I commissioned a suit, and the trousers were leaking in a big mess, and the material was soft and rotten, and the thread was pulled off and lost. From then on, I have no affection for flannel.
However, the lightness and feel of this suit, as well as the stripes with constant visibility, are in line with the feeling of this dress.
I have always had a sense of wide shoulder, that is, when you only look at the body, it is very good, because it frames the head, but if I stand up, especially if I am not tall and confident enough, I am crushed.
Look at this one. Do I look like a boss?
