As the top three kings of French shoemakers, Aubercy is the A of ABC, B is Berluti and C is Corthay. Each model from Aubercy is a piece of art, full of beauty. Pattern design is its ace in hand, in my opinion, the best of the whole world.
Aubercy shoes are rarely seen in the market as it has no online presence and only has one boutique in France. There was a shop in Japan but closed. Its inhouse bespoke service is very sought after and Ready to Wear was made by Italian shoemaker Enzo Bonafe.
Let us check out my pair.
Pattern
Three eyelets derby in yellowish green.
I don’t feel it very French but Italian. However the colour is definitely speaking of Aubercy who loves to use candy-like colours.
Two design points on this pair of shoes.
One is the tassel at the end of the shoe lace. Tassel loafer may be seen by many, but on laced up shoes, it only works for dandies.
The other is the shape of flaps forming the derby. The angle is well executed and it feels like a loafer with cut to half saddle.
Construction
Why I said I don’t feel it French but Italian? Just look at the welt if there is any. This pair is Blake stitched and the fudge is so fine and you may find on many good Italian shoes.
The decoration of the heel block is also very Italian and I think the tools are the same among many shoemakers. At the end of the decorative fudge there is a small flower shape stamp and only Italians do so.
Leather
After years of wear, the crease and oil saturation are so good.
Outsole
No matter it is Blake stitched or Goodyear welted, Italian always hides stitches on the outsole. For this hiding or closing channel process, there is no difference to Blake stitched or Goodyear welted.
On one hand that close channel is by default, bevelled or fiddleback waist is not pursued by Italian shoemakers, quite strange.
Details
Full sock lining is more seen on Blake shoes as it can cover the stitches on the midsole. But this calf leather is not as moisture absorbing as vegetable tanned midsole, so I prefer half sock lining.
Conclusion
It is rather a pair of Enzo Bonafe in Aubercy colour than a pair of Aubercy in general, but the last is still provided by Aubercy.
