Where are French shoes ranked in Europe? It is a tough question. why? Because most French brands are very happy to run business domestically, even J.M.Weston is doing very well in Japan, you cannot see it popular in other countries except France and Japan.
Sure there are exceptions, such as Berluti was acquired by LVMH and in-cooperated prestigious tailoring house Arnys, It has become a major luxury fashion house. Corthay follows very closely to expand globally. Same as the epitome of French shoemakers, Aubercy just opens its door to local customers in Paris.
Against this top level brands, French entry level brands are very competitive such as Septieme Largeur and Orban’s, the value is just too good.
In the between there are two sections, one is patina focused brands such as Altan, J.M.LeGazel, Caulconarut and Marc Guyot. The other is, strictly speaking, not dress shoe brand at all. The iconic is Paraboot. Heschung also belongs to this section although its origin is skiing shoes, and is still the offcicial supplier of France Olympic Ski Team.
It is until 1990s the dress shoe models were released.
Let us check my pair.
Pattern
This model Bouleau is a Norwegese construction single monk. But this monk is different. Heschung used to use Buckle to describe its monk shoes, and what is the difference?
The strap is linked to one side piece and goes through the metal ring the comes back to the original piece and buckles.
The usual monk looks like this.
Because of this difference, two side pieces are there, basically for the function but also offers aesthetics.
There is another detail about the reinforcement stitches of the side pieces.
Last
It is very typical that the shoes look very rough overall while the last, if you trim off all the thick sole and sturdy welt, is quite elegant and gentle.
For Asian who would like to try French brands, I strongly suggest to take half size up if not width option is offered officially.
Construction
Like Paraboot, every pair of Heschung utilized Norwegese construction. The stitches on the upper are quite coarse and present very strong contrast.
There are two layers of outsole, the leather sole is stitched with the welt, and another layer of rubber sole is put on top of the leather sole. This pair of shoes can be worn for some time for sure.
Outsole
This rubber sole called Ridgeway, good looking and anti-slippery.
The rubber sole can be glued or stitched, this one is the latter. Technically speaking, glued rubber sole is easier to change.
Details
The tongue reminds that Heschung has the blood of sports.
Fit
I normally take UK5 for most English brands, however, this pair of UK6 fits me quite well, French brand is so hard to guess.
Conclusion
When can we see Heschung all over the world and is recognized for its ski inspired dress shoes?