This is my black Cap Toe Oxford with the highest craftsmanship and the best leather level, but it is not my favorite or most worn one.
I can’t remember exactly how many pairs of black cap toe Oxford I have and how many pairs I have had, but whenever I look at a brand, I will unconsciously look for its black cap toe Oxford to understand the aesthetics of the brand.
I am not so into this pair because of the last and the fit, which gives me a deeper understanding of the logic of the lasts of Chinese and European shoes.
Let ut check it out.
Last
Square-round toe. I think this is a very beautiful and harmonious last. The width and roundness of the toe are indeed not small, but through elongation, the overall length-width ratio is fully realized and comfortable.
Austrian last, which blends the flavor of Germany, Hungary and Italy. In fact, it is worth exploring whether the shortness and roundness of traditional British shoes are to resist the centuries-long crush and rule of France on the other side in the fashion field.
From an aesthetic point of view, I think it’s good. But when I get on my feet, it will bring me discomfort when my shoes are elongate.
My experience to this day is that if you wear a very formal English suit and have big trouser legs, the short shoes are almost completely covered, which is strange, certainly you need a long toe to show them out of the trouser legs.
Pattern
Most traditional and boring cap toe Oxford.
This Oxford is generally realized by four pieces of leather. A piece of leather on the toe, a piece of leather in Vamp area, and two pieces of leather from shoelace area to heel.
Schubert only has three pieces of leather, that is, from the shoelace area to the heel, and they are one piece of leather, so they don’t need to be sewn together.
Craftsmanship
Look at the craftsmanship of this shoe from three aspects.
The stitching on the upper leather. This is done with a sewing machine, not by hand. Density, the level of double lines, conveys that there is not such a hurry when making shoes. If you observe the stitches on many of your shoes, the density will not be bad, and the straightness may not be bad, but you can clearly see that the workers are in a hurry.
I was touched by a sentence in the book Diary of Hermes President.
“The real luxury is time, the time to slow down and do something well.”
This sentence is true for everyone and everything, and not only related to luxury goods.
Then it is completely blind stitching. This is the top craftsmanship in the world.
I believe when capable shoemakers see the shoes and think about it themselves, they can all figure out how to do it. But whether we can slow it down and make it look good depends on the pursuit and mentality of the craftsmen.
The West End of London custom flavor brought by the sole thickness is still obvious. The sole is thin, but Maftei uses German Gerberei Martin leather sole, which also takes into account the wear resistance.
If you don’t pay attention to the transition and arc of the heel from the upper to the heel, it seems to have no characteristics, but when you unconsciously pay attention, you will see the grinding arc of the heel, not the Cuban heel you see on the finished shoes at present, but a more subtle curve.
This detail is not emphasized or done by most brands at present, and it is seamless lining.
Just like the seamless Oxford, it can’t bring about actual dress improvement except for showing off exclusivity. Moreover, according to Jesper, blogger of Shoegazing, genuine seamless Oxford uppers are more likely to be damaged.
Seamless lining will be the most comfortable one even if you have the most sensitive feet because there is no stitches to “hurt”.
The difficulty of making it, like seamless Oxford, lies in lasting, which also increases the labour time.
Exclusivity speaks.
Leather
The creases after wearing indoors for 5 times.
Superb. Maftei chooses high grade leather, which is not to mention. Fine crease is for sure. But what is not seen in other brands is super resilience.
Generally speaking, it is enough to wear leather for two or three times, because the creases will be the same forever.
Outsole
The sole features London waist, and the whole sole is painted black. There is a circle of small copper nails on the heel.
The rubber in the heel is Vibram, and this choice is made because it provides the best wear resistance.
But Vibram doesn’t have such a heel, so it’s all handmade by Maftei. After the leather in the heel is stacked layer by layer, at the back end of the bottom layer, a thinner layer of leather is stacked first, and then this thin layer of Vibram is attached.
It is rare to be willing to spend this effort on such a detail.
Accessories
Hinged hollow shoe tree customized according to shoe last.
Here is another technical detail, the size of the heel of the shoe tree.
Obviously, the heel of the shoe tree is much smaller than the heel of the shoe. Why? Isn’t it customized according to the shoe last?
The answer is that it is convenient to take it out. Otherwise, when the thick heel bottom is lifted up, it passes through the small shoe opening, and when the whole shoe is stuffed to the brim, how much effort will it take?
It is all about experience.
Bat shape toe plate with Maftei logo.
Fit
Like my bespoke pair of Maftei, the forefoot is empty, which is not what I like. There are two reasons, the first is the pursuit of comfort, and the second is the aesthetics of shoes in Austria and Hungary, which is not oriented to exquisiteness.
Thanks to the top leather quality and tight handlasting, otherwise such creases and big waves will be ugly.
Summary
2000 Euro for a pair of shoes, you bet they are worthy.