I introduced a pair of Hanover Longwing here. It is said that the MasterFlex line is a less advanced line. But from the shoes, I can see that there is really nothing to be picky about except the bookbinder leather. The comfort is great, and the double leather sole is durable.
This time, I introduce a pair of Imperial collection and see if it’s better.
Last
This last is worth articulating, because it is very American as well as non-American.
Non American is because most American lasts are square and elongated, and today, it is represented by Allen Edmonds.
The reason for being very American is that this kind of small round even pointy toe was once popular in the United States, and the taste of this tip is completely different from that of France and Italy. You can tell at a glance that it is an American toe. Why? Because the curve is abrupt.
The classic of this last is Chester of Allen Edmonds. A few people still pursue these shoes now.
And when we look at the old catalogues, we know its position in the eyes of Americans.
Pattern
A pair of four-eyelet derbies with Apron. This pattern is contradictory.
On the one hand, in the field of classic men’s shoes, you won’t see too many odd pattern designs, but when you see, they are extremely sexy.
On the other hand, those dress shoes in the mall targeting ordinary consumers have a lot of these strange designs.
I may attribute it to a style that was once popular, but it is not very popular now.
Two pieces of Derby ears have decorative lines parallel to the leather edges. American shoes with beautiful upper design are few.
Leather
Three observations.
The creases are very delicate.
You can see the coating, but it still takes shine very well. There is no shoe wax on it, a tiny cream brings out the luster particularly good.
Very thin. Thin is soft and comfortable, but it is also easy to collapse. I’m not sure why this pair was made so thin to save costs.
Craftsmanship
The “Middle” in the three methods of hiding welt stitches is not executed very well, but at least there are few brands used in this process now. In my impression, only John Lobb Prestige and Crockett & Jones Handgrade.
The waist immediately exposes the nature, not too dense stitches, but not fine, at least at the same level as the main line of Crockett & Jones today.
Where welt connects is quite rough.
Outsole
Open channel Goodyear welted, full rubber top at the heel.
Such a thick piece of rubber heel makes you worry free about wear. And the one above seems to be a whole piece, and it is not necessarily leather.
Details
For a period of time, many shoes in the United States like to emphasize shock absorption. In fact, something like a foam is stuck under the insole. Today’s shoes, many brands will add them under the half pad of the heel.
Hanover added foam under the whole pad, which is naturally comfortable to wear. This insole is also perforated to help breathe.
Thanks for the atlas provided by a reader, who happened to have this one and explained the cushion! ! It’s so beautiful!
So I know that this shoe is Monterey and the last is York.
I’m a little curious about one of its false propaganda. The first sentence, all leather shoes. We don’t argue for the sake of arguing that Cork is not leather, and glue and stitches can’t be leather, but I know even major component of this pair is not all leather.
You can see that the lining is made of cotton cloth, not leather.
Secondly, this pair of last is also a Combination Last (this is a type of lasts), but so are those Longwing, so this Combination may not be the name of the last. What is it? Worth studying.
Summary
Although this pair is from Imperial collection, in my opinion, the quality is not as good as that of the lower-level collection with bookbinder leather, which may be different in age.
In addition, the craftsmanship of this pair is also very perfunctory, and it does follow a hidden line, but maybe that was just the practice at that time, not that the brand wanted to make the shoes more beautiful.