Chetwynd is one of the best sellers from Church’s and I own another pair but in box calf. I came to realize why Chetwynd is so popular among Church’s fans, because it is the best known and seen full brogue model.
I feel Church’s fans are more fond of its glorious old days other than the model itself and that is the reason why I have this one. I have never been a fan of Church’s as when I knew it, it had been acquired by Prada and polished leather shoes are how people think of Church’s. But the great shoe collector, Sevan Misasian told that he had one pair of suede Chetwynd for 30 years! In service not on shelf! That was a real killer!
Let us have a look at this pair.
Last and Pattern
The last is 173, the most popular last of Church’s.
It is told by the official that last 173 is the combination of two preceded renowned lasts 100 and 73. Last 73 has a very wide and short toe, 100 is somehow more contemporary elongated silhouette, so the combination is classic.
Leather
It is very funny that most shoe enthusiasts accuse Church’s for its leather options, such as making polish leather the best leather and bring the whole industry to the bottom, treating customers with rubbish leather, however Church’s use great leathers in fact. When you check its smooth leather and suede, you will find the quality is at least on par with Edward Green!
This pair is Janus from tannery Charles F. Stead, the highest level suede in the world. You can find the fiber is quite short.
Outsole
It is true that no slot was seen on rubber sole, but the stitches on this pair is too shallow and easy to wear.
Detail
One point that very few cares and notices, how shoe tongue attaches to the shoe? Some English shoemakers love to attach it to one side of the quarter.
Conclusion
The iconic models from Church’s Custom Grade are classic in many shoe lovers’ eyes, I know they are old fashioned, but maybe the flavor is what sets Church’s apart.