Which one is more common seen, smooth leather or grained (embossed) leather?
For people who are new to dress shoes, or very seasoned shoe enthusiasts, smooth leather is more common, because whether it is Loafer or Oxford, it is the world of black smooth leather.
But for people who are still extremely passionate about playing with dress shoes, and the majority of bag collectors, whether it is top luxury or entry-level, embossed leather must be more common.
Among so many embossed leathers, there is an undisputed king, palm print leather. The more well-known name, Epsom.
Yes, it is popular because Hermès loves to use it.
So many artificial leathers has this texture which tells the popularity of this leather.
Everyone knows that Hermès owns two tanneries, D’Annonay and Du Puy. But Epsom belongs to another French tannery, Haas, and Haas belongs to Chanel.
Hermès chooses competitors over its own tanneries, is it really the spirit of internationalism?
But the word Epsom was made up by Hermes, just like John Lobb coined the word Museum Calf. Haas sells this leather collection under the name of Derby.
Haas official website mentions that this leather is used to make bags, not shoes. Indeed, very few shoemakers use this leather, and I saw it in ZHAO Zhun’s work once, which he explained because the client wanted the color of pigeon gray.
Palm print leather does not mean Epsom only, the same texture can be found other than Derby collection from Haas. Such as Museum calf is not only from Ilcea, but also Haas and Zonta.
The first one is Du Puy Couchevel, but unfortunately this collection has been discontinued.
Next up is the Dauphin collection, also from the French tannery, Degermann.
This tannery has been featured in another article, is in the same area as Haas, and was also acquired by Chanel in 2019. Tannery Degermann is the oldest existing tannery in France.
Dauphin collection is said to be softer than Epsom.
This leather is very rarely used on shoes, leaving aside the toughness and other issues that you are concerned about as a shoemaker, from aesthetics point of view, what style is suitable is worth excavating.
