The Direction of Chinese Classic Shoemakers

This is my thoughts on the development of the industry, hoping to get more discussion.

Worldwide, the popularity of classic dress shoes is definitely fading. As for the peak year, I’m afraid there is no conclusion today. The peak of China market is about 2-3 years later than that of the international market. In 2024, all brands have already felt the deep winter.

The ups and downs of classic dress shoes are not completely in line with the economic situation of various countries. At least from 2000 to 2010, it was not because of the good economy, but because people saw such a traditional commodity emerging from the history pile.

Many shoemakers and custom tailors say that they are grateful to social media for bringing this category, which was originally consumed by a very small number of people, into public view, Spain quickly followed suit, and then many manufacturers emerged all over the world. In China, Mattina, TGC and Yearn, which appeared in the most concerned stage, and CIE and Gulun, which plowed this category earlier.

Today, different brands have chosen different positioning, customer base and development direction, but all of them have reached the plateau.

Is it terrible to reach plateau? This is a very good question. As far as enterprises are concerned, if they don’t advance, they will retreat. Because the market share is dynamic, your customer base has come in and gone out. If you sleep on the success, I’m afraid your share will only get less and less.

From the industry point of view, the classic menswear and dress shoes may be gradually marginalized because of their formal attributes. Therefore, many brands are trying to be casual. Comparatively speaking, clothing brands are better than shoemakers in this respect.

Then, for Chinese shoemakers, apart from becoming leisure, where is the direction? Remember, leisure seems to be the right direction, and it is not difficult from the perspective of product development, but it has changed from niche market to mass market in an instant, and the number, scale and strength of competitors are all in another dimension.

In my personal opinion, if we still stick to this product track, Chinese shoemakers still has two ways to go.

• International Market

This depends on the powerful manufacturing in China.

Oct Tenth is the best representative, and its cost performance brought by workmanship can stand out in the world, so many European brands use it for OEM.

When Chinese shoemakers of all price points are compared with European brands, our price is only half of others’.

So if we can develop sales channels and do a good job in brand promotion, we can at least kill manufacturers in developed countries. Of course, this also takes time, because brand value, customer awareness and sales channels are not established overnight. But this route is definitely accessible. I believe that other categories made in China have already made samples.

• Luxurization

We have to admit that this category, from beginning to end, is not for the public. Whether we say that it used to serve dignitaries, or that only people who have high requirements for suits and dress shoes will choose it today, or that it is the simplest and rudest, the high price, it has no chance to expand too much in the market.

Coupled with the decline of this trend, it can be expected that the market is likely to shrink.

Then the only thing that can be done in this category is luxurization. However, it is by no means to raise the price and become a commodity similar to luxury goods and reflecting the value of social vanity, but to go in the direction of art.

This requires all brands to think, improve and evolve their products in all directions. The ultimate goal is not to let more people wear these shoes, but to let people who like and appreciate this thing get more advanced enjoyment. That is, to strengthen the attributes of its handicrafts.

These two roads can be divided into two parts: first, you can beat others to death, and then you can slowly improve yourself. You can also go at the same time, or you can choose different directions yourself.

But the hope of expanding the market (whether domestic or global) is gone.

I hope everyone can contribute your own views.