The Epitome of Derby

Once I shot a episode of video called The Elegant Derby.

Derby is the indisputable second best seller in China after Loafer. If you look around and see dress shoes most Chinese wear, you see the crappy derby.

As an oxford guy though, I have to admit Derby has its epitome!

If you ask an English man, the answer would be the country derby from makers like Tricker’s with double leather sole.

If the same question goes to American, the answer probably is plain toe from Alden.

But the true shoe lovers in the US will tell you, longwing from Florsheim is the real king, and for ever!

And if you come across people from middle Europe, the answer must be Budapester！

Most Frenchmen say Chasse from J.M.Weston definitely is the answer.

But for all shoe enthusiasts all over the world, the epitome of Derby is and must be Arca from Corthay.

What makes Arca the masterpiece firstly points to the Pullman last. Then it is the two eyelets design which displays more area from the toe to instep and says something called elegance.

Does Arca have any challenger? We can have a look.

Luffield, the two eyelets derby from John Lobb gives the impression of French shoes by the first sight, elongated and streamlined silhouette. And the curve line of the flap is also slanted and long.

I don’t find two eyelets derby from Edward Green, as the very conservative English brand, the fewest eyelet number is 3.

Uppingham from Gaziano & Girling, the worm like wingtip draws all the attention and the number of eyelets is irrelevant anymore.

In Crockett & Jones official archive, only three eyelet derby is present, but I had a pair of vintage one without name which is two eyelet.

Stefano Bemer may take loose on the flap design, however the medallion is too good.

Aubercy may be not as famous as Corthay and Berluti, but as the first letter of ABC, its designs are second to none, each model is the top notch art!

Saint Crispin‘s also has its iconic two eyelet derby. Last Classic mixes Autrian and Italian aesthetics. And the super long split toe is very innovative.

The blogger behind ParisianGentlemen, Hugo Jacomet cooperated with Carlos Santos and designed a great model

This pair pushes the sharpness of two eyelet derby to extreme and the flap is the eagle beak.

On a more round last, the beauty still cannot be ignored.