Unboxing Odd Colour Shell Cordovan Navvy from Maftei

As a bespoke shoemaker, Maftei does offer a lot of leather options to its clients, but not till recent years, shell cordovan was not so common seen and chosen in this atelier. Mr. Maftei suddenly fell in love with Horween shell cordovan and stocked some. This pair was made of one special piece as the colour is so rare.

Last

The last is 775, name Pei in China (for better memory). 775 is the most iconic Austrian last which has a banana shape with square round toe and is slightly elongated. I think this last has all the elements to best represent Austrian preference.

Banana last may fit the foot of many mid Europe citizens and Asians, it has its Achilles’ Heel which is the outer curve is too pronounced and seems harmful the harmony of the silhouette. But if you see it more times and get used to it, you find different beauty inside.

Pattern

Split toe four eyelets derby. The apron and split toe stitches are quite rough, and it is the flavor this pair wishes to express. Another thing to notice on the pattern is the ankle side has a parallel seam.

However this split toe is quite unique as it utilizes the characteristic of Viennese shoes, Ersherzog. This one is truly rough.

Construction

Goyser construction. This name is quite new to some, but it is the mid European version of Norwegian stitched construction. I love to joke that Norwegian split toe needs Norwegian stitched construction to match and this Navvy made it.

360 degree Goyser, which is not as common as mainstream 270 degree, and I think the whole circle is better looking.

Outsole

Double leather sole square toe close channel sole. Very pragmatic.

Leather

You cannot tell what colour of this Horween shell cordovan, someone would say blue, someone would tell it is very dark green. I have no verdict, however I highly suspect this colour was handmade by Maftei rather than Horween.

Shoe Tree

Hand carved hollow shoe tree, very quait.

Quite exquisite shape even the making seems antique.

Conclusion

Goyser construction split toe derby made in truly rare Horween shell cordovan, I do feel Navvy is attractive.