I didn’t feel persuaded in the discussion with ENP, however looking at my shoe stock, I came to realize the impact is deep down. As my friend Leo, owner of bespoke tailoring house Leo Tailor said to me, what is special is your favorite.
As the owner of a select shoe shop, I have sales data and am fully aware what models sell best, what is highly praised and appreciated but seldom bought, further models not well regarded at all. However, I always think I need to offer unique products, otherwise what is the point of my shop existence?
Saddle shoes has been introduced, and alongside with Button Boots and Butterfly loafers are the unique offerings among J.FitzPatrick collection.
Let us have a look of this pair of Burien。
Unboxing
The shoe box colour is so bright and even redder than watermelon which is my favorite fruit no matter in which season.
All the information about this pair is on the side of the shoe box. Model name Burien, model serial number 14445 which is meaningless to consumers but crucial for factory. Last TMG, contemporary round toe. F is the width.
Sizing system of J.FitzPatrick is the same as Gaziano & Girling which is natural that the last of J.FitzPatrick was developed by Tony Gaziano. The default and standard width is E, extra width is F, and there is a narrower width with designation D. F is also called EE for better understanding to US and European customers. F width fits most Chinese better.
Colour is Dark brown museum calf collides with tan grain leather.
Shoe bag is quite thick to protect shoes inside and match the colour of shoe box.
Pattern
Very eccentric design, but if you are more open, you can call it well innovated. Cap toe with medallion, Half brogue Saddle oxford.
Saddle oxford is the creation of American and its original pattern is plain toe.
So even on a not so popular model, J.FitzPatrick still exerts to inject sparkles.
Cap toe is already strange for saddle oxford, medallion is unheard of. Cap toe increases formality while medallion offsets some, the final effect? No idea.
What are the design points of saddle oxford? Certainly the colour collision catches the eye first, then it is the shape of the saddle. Justin FitzPatrick learnt shoemaking skill from Stefano Bemer Studio and his style is significantly distant from the original American version and says something slender and stream lined.
Leather
Museum calf from Italian tannery Ilcea. About 2 or 3 years ago, Museum calf reached its peak after John Lobb, or more specifically Hermes group cooperated with Ilcea to release this kind of leather a decade ago. At its peak, every brand pushed models in this leather but now, quite few brands stick to this leather, and J.FitzPatrick is one of them.
The uneven of colouring and seemingly fading is achieved by dyeing, the purpose is to mimic natural patina, or you can call it aging of the leather after use.
This very prominent grain leather is Country Grain or Scotch grain, most seen on country shoes, take an example, Pembroke from Crockett & Jones.
This is the first time I see the saddle is made of grain leather and the execution is perfect. As its casual feeling match saddle oxford surprisingly good. And the colour combination is also very outdoor touch.
Outsole
Branded city rubber sole.
I am still not sure City sole means the rubber sole firstly introduced by Crockett & Jones or any rubber sole sleeker than studded rubber sole.
The durability is unquestionable, only replacing the heel top, it can last at least ten years.
Craftsmanship
I think on welted shoes, two details are easy to inspect and determine whether the shoes are well made.
One is the upper stitch and the other welt stitch.
For both, density is the king, and the higher the better, which also put some pressure on the stitching machine and craftsmen’s delicate work.
Two aspects are focused on welt stitch, one is density as upper, the other is the distance between stitches and upper. Because if the stitches are close to upper, the grinding of welt and outsole can be pushed closer to upper as well, and the final result is the shoes look more refined.
On both stitches, J.FitzPatrick gives great answer.
Details
Even the tongue is also Country Grain, and this detail makes enthusiast satisfied and smile.
Conclusion
Pull back the already forgotten models back to the market but with own innovation. I love J.FitzPatrick forever!