These are the shoes posted by Carlos Santos on Instagram, and I fell in love with them at the first glance.
The style of this boot is a very ordinary derby boot, but what makes me fall in love with is its rough taste. On the contrary, this extreme roughness makes it not inconsistent with exquisite white trousers.
Let’s take a look together.
Unboxing
The almost square shoe box indicates that it is a pair of boots.
Print paper is already a little uneven in transportation.
If I come to make the packaging, I will definitely cancel this thing.
Style number is 1051, last 437, this is the first time I meet this last. Leather is called Waxed Prairie, remember this, this is the highlight of this pair of boots.
Last
Do you pay attention to its big round toe at first sight? But in my eyes, this is a pair of mainstream Italian tasta.
The mainstream means the well-known Italian brands, including but not limited to Zegna, Tod‘s and Ferragamo.
Because of its elongated proportion.
If this last is placed on dress shoes such as Oxford or Derby, I will look down on it. But on the boots, it is right.
I have commented that when the height line becomes longer, the upper line is also suitable for longer. The short-faced boots are really special.
Upper design
Plain toe derby boots, with five holes and two quick buckles. Two ears are wrapped directly to the heel, which is a standard way to make the upper of Blucher, so it is a very common style. The only difference is that most brands choose cap toe, and Kayden is plain toe.
For example, Crockett & Jones bestselling boots, Coniston.
There is a pull ring at the heel and a “band-aid” below to connect the two pieces of leather.
Leather
This is the biggest highlight of these boots.
Speaking of rough boots, what leather do I think is suitable? In fact, the leather of most boots, even workboots is smooth leather. Their rough taste is basically realized by the shape of the last. But if the workwear flavor is to be full, the leather must also be rough.
What will come to mind when we talk about rough leather? Scotch grain counts as one, and it is standard on English country shoes. But it is not enough. If you can wear Bison leather, the taste will be upgraded to a higher level. But there is an option that many people have not thought of, and that is suede.
When it comes to suede, the word everyone will use is delicate, because it looks very advanced in texture, and it is easy to get dirty, furthermore it is not easy to recover when it is dirty. How can it be associated with roughness?
The answer is, oiled and waxed. When the suede is coated with thick wax, it immediately becomes like a shoe that has been working in oil for a long time. The Coniston of Crockett & Jones above is wax suede.
But this pair is not waxed suede, because you can’t see the texture of these gullies on the wax suede, or I haven’t seen these textures on the suede so far. So, this pair is actually a waxed nubuck!
Therefore, its roughness is realized by the “dirty” feeling of oil and wax and the “abyss” feeling of gully.
Another effect of this extreme roughness is that it can be matched with very delicate clothes, such as white trousers and even earth tone’s suit.
This is the same as when the sun shines on the snowy ground, it will give you the feeling of midsummer.
Construction
360-degree storm welted.
It is quite suitable for boots, and no one will be picky about the density of stitches and deal with the fineness of welt.
Outsole
The ultra-light Gumlite series from Vibram mountaineering sole collection. Wear resistance, portability and aesthetic attributes matched with rough boots all in one step.
Summary
I feel very strange. How can people who once insisted on navy blue suits and black cap toe oxfords be attracted to these boots? Is this like a very good junior high school girl who is always attracted by those bad boys?