Steven Hitchcock is regarded the best cutter in the UK by some most tasteful bespoke tailoring connoisseurs around the world. He had followed his father’s step working in Anderson & Sheppard for many years, then opened its own atelier to offer “refined drape” to his fans at 58 Chiltern street.
People love to talk about his legendary father, John Hitchcock and also the Vicuna overcoat Steven cut for Prince Charles, but let us confine our questions to himself.
He is fully occupied and I cannot secure an proper interview with him, and under one of his loyal customers help, he kindly wrote briefly to my questions. If I have the opportunity to visit him in person, maybe an evolutional version will be presented.
In your view, has there been any changes between the usual stereotype of the English suit and the modern interpretation of it? if so, what has changed?
The cloth has become lighter in weight over the last 30 years, so I now cut a side body to help make a clean coat working with much lighter cloths.
I can now make up 8oz as 30 years ago the cloth would be 20oz due to big houses and no central heating.
If customer chooses to leave the styling entirely up to you, what sort of visual effect would you prefer to create? aggressive or gentle/subdued?
Always under stated. I will style the suit look uniquely for every individual client.
If you can pick one garment to represent Steven Hitchcock Bespoke, what would it be?
3 roll 2 sports coat.
Are there any other cutters that interests you? if you would like another cutter to make something for you, who would it be?
Malcolm Plews. (Mr. Plews is called the cutter of the cutters.)
What is your interpretation of soft tailoring, is it about feeling soft and comfortable while visually maintaining the clean lines? or it is about looking soft, and feeling soft?
The most comfortable suit in the world, great fit and style.
You have produced many work log type of videos on social media, what was the main purpose of those videos? was it about spreading the charm of bespoke tailoring, and draw more people into the trade?
Showing new clients we are approachable.
Also passing on some off my techniques to aspiring tailors.
As a tailor, how would you advise someone who is interested in English style to start building his wardrobe? do you have any reference which people can draw inspiration from?
Start with a single breasted blue or grey suit and go from there.
Compare to other establishments on Savile Row, what are the advantages and disadvantage of being a one-man shop?
I only make 150 suits a year, I can then cut and fit everyone keeping the quality and consistency very high.
You normally have tri-annual trunk shows in the US, is there any particular reason that Asia was missing?
I limit my bespoke suits to 150 a year and I’m am achieving that already, no need to travel any where else at the moment.
Many Chinese customers would like to try your work, what is the best way to approach you about acquiring a suit from you？
Visit London where I am based, get a suit started, I can always finish and send.