The maker of these shoes, ZENG Jie, currently works as production manager in SLIMSHOES/Yearn shoemaker.
In terms of upper design, it completely copied John Lobb’s original design.
This last is indeed very characteristic. Toe cap is horizontal, and then an arc dive. It is very different to currently popular hard chisel or soft chisel toes.
This innovation is good, but it seems too avant-garde and maybe targets Berluti’s audience.
The top view makes people feel the proportion of wingtip is not a little abnormal.
The quality of the upper stitch is very high.
Fudge on welt is done, but the fineness is not high.
Waist is thinned too much in my opinion.
The overall beauty of the sole is quite good.
Heel is stacked with more than normal layers of leather, but the finish is absent.
The process is there, but the result is unimpressive.
Looking at the heel stacking on the bottom of bevelled waist, you can tell that the leather has indeed been skived a lot to match the shape.
The only design of this shoe that triggers me is this X-shaped fixed line at the lower end of quarter and this element can be easily transmitted to ready to wear shoes.
Let us check the score and comments from master judges.
Masaru Okuyama
Craftsmanship: 7.5
Aesthetics: 7.5
Comment: Good pattern work, neat upper stitching. Good try for the narrow and thin bevelled waist.
Daniel Wegan
Craftsmanship: 8
Aesthetics: 8.5
Comment: Good looking pattern wit nice proportions. Upper stitching is very nice as well as skiving. Best upper of the competition. Sole stitching is little bit uneven but edge is nice and straight. Waist has good shape but outside is better than inside. Heel has good shape but seat is very un even and under cut. Bottom finish is very good and a well executed peach bottom. Top piece is has nice shape. Sole could use some good edge ironing.
Roberto Ugolini
Construction: 8
Aesthetics: 8
Comment: Good looking model, Upper stitching is nice, Sole stitching to be reviewed at the moment a bit irregular, Good finishing of the edges but sole to be finished better.