If dress shoes have deep creases, they look a little pitiful, and I feel very uncomfortable.
Some people think that the shoes have creases is because the leather is not good. Some people even think that good dress shoes don’t crease at all. This is completely ridiculous.
First of all, leather is bound to crease, and there is no leather that doesn’t crease. The creases of good leather are indeed a little better. But here I need to explain that the reason is generally finer grains, so it is not easy to produce visually large wrinkles. But you still see a lot of subtle creases.
In principle leather fibers are stretched and shortened repeatedly, so that the periodic fatigue makes the fibers completely loosened, so they crease.
Dress shoes crease for the following reasons.
The shoes don’t fit (too big)
Shoes that fit crease, but shoes that don’t fit (too big) are more likely to produce large and conspicuous creases.
Because of the extra space, where your feet can’t fill up, it gives the leather more chances to crease.
And a funny thing is that the shoes of people with high instep have the least creases. Therefore, although people with high instep wear a lot of shoes that don’t fit or hurt their feet, they finally found a venue here.
Leather Quality
Most of the time, the quality of leather does not make much difference on creases. On the contrary, the most expensive leather with the highest quality is particularly prone to crease, while the very cheap leather may not crease too much.
Upper Pattern
This is almost the most critical reason. Wholecut oxford creases the most, while all Brogue shoes crease the least.
Because it relates to how shoes are made.
Wholecut has only one piece of leather, so it will leave a certain margin, which makes the tension of the whole leather relatively small, so creases are easy to occur. For all Brogue shoes, usually 4 to 5 pieces of leather are sewn together, so the leather surface can provide very sufficient tension.
Lasting
What I’m talking about here is the process of shoemaking, that is, laying the leather on the last of the shoe, and then tightening and shaping it.
The shorter this process is, the more room there will be, so the tension of leather is smaller and it is easier to crease. The longer this “shaping” process takes, the tighter leather is wrapped on the last, and the longer it fits, the less likely it is to crease.
Handlasting takes longer and details are handled better, so shoes are of better quality and more expensive.
Machine lasting is very fast.
How To Avoid
It is impossible to avoid it completely, and it can only delay the process.
There are mainly two methods, one is to use shoetree which has been emphasized for ten thousand times.
The other one is to use shoehorn when wearing shoes, for two reasons. First, if you need shorhorn so that you feet can enter the shoes, it means you choose the right fit. Second, it reduce the over stretching during putting on.
